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Advice on diesel oil and filter changing

Paolo5 · 18 · 30157

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Offline Paolo5

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I am planning an early oil and filter change this weekend. Can anyone who has done this to their diesel kindly give me a definitive guide to doing this?

I had a quick look underneath my i30 the other day but in the dark and with a torch could not find the sump plug. I will drive the car onto ramps and look properly over the weekend. Can anyone give me a location and a socket size?

I have located the oil filter housing and can see what look like 2 springclips on the top surface around the nut look-a-like. I am assuming that these 2 pins need to be pushed inwards with some needlenose pliers in order to remove the housing.

I have a 27mm socket ready and waiting...(read on another site that it is required to undo the inner housing in order to expose the oil filter element).

I have read that there is an electrical connection that needs to be separated. Are there any other things to look out for?

Any help will be most appreciated.

Cheeers,
Paolo5


Offline Mutley

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I can't help but was wondering why? You only just got your car!


Offline agentr31

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a lot of people like to change the oil at 1000km... gets any swarf from the machining process out of the system... when they machine things they can never get 100% of the rubbish out of it, i should know im a fitter and turner... the filter will catch almost all of it before it does any damage tho!!

if your real keen on an oil and filter change leave it till 5000km man, just to let the rings/bearings/everything else settle in properly


Offline Paolo5

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What agent31 said. I also have more faith in the preserving ability of the Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 oil that I will put into my new baby than I have in any other oil. I don't know what oil Hyundai uses. Does anyone else know?

It will also then be a known quantity to me....call it a peace-of-mind thing at the very least.


Offline Mutley

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Offline 2i30s

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I'm not sure what sort of oil is in our cars when they leave the factory but i do know in Australia nearly every dealer uses a different brand to each other.[but the same grade]   :rolleyes:
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Offline Paolo5

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I rang my local Hyundai dealer about Hyundai oil. The salesman in the spares department said that the oil  was branded Hyundai and is a 10W30 oil. They sell it for $52 for 5 litres. At my local dealer, this is the oil that they have in the workshop too.


Offline eye30

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Oil in UK for crdi has to conform to C3
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Offline i30niko

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SO the initial question was completely missed on this thread,
Has anyone ever done it on the diesels before that can gives us
a step by step guide??
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Offline Dazzler

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SO the initial question was completely missed on this thread,
Has anyone ever done it on the diesels before that can gives us
a step by step guide??

I haven't Niko but hopefully someone will see your post and run with it .. We have a handful of members that admit to doing their own.. :goodjob:

Have you browsed through the relevant topics in the how to section?
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Offline beerman

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Don't know if this guide is of any help?

Posted in here a while back by instroe

https://sites.google.com/site/instroe/i30-crdi-engine-air-filter-replacement

Has a list of various jobs he did with photos etc.
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Offline Dazzler

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I forgot about that (good one Beerman)  :goodjob:
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Offline i30niko

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Don't know if this guide is of any help?

Posted in here a while back by instroe

https://sites.google.com/site/instroe/i30-crdi-engine-air-filter-replacement

Has a list of various jobs he did with photos etc.

OMG EXCELLENT GUIDE - Thanks to the person who created this and to the person who posted it here!!
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Offline BrightonSA

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SO the initial question was completely missed on this thread,
Has anyone ever done it on the diesels before that can gives us
a step by step guide??

Precisely, the author wants a step by step on changing the oil.  I also want to know the procedures.

BrightonSA
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Offline The Gonz

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Hope you can be of help: http://www.clubi30.es/showthread.php?tid=9 :D
If I'm understanding this, we want this in English. Back in a sec ( or two).
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Offline The Gonz

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Well, I live to the limit and since I have no money I have decided to do the servicing myself although I know I'll lose the warranty. I'll show you how a basic servicing is done (oil filter, air filter, oil and Diesel filter). You need to raise the car onto a kerb or with a hydraulic jack  to be able to do this - the Madridites have it easy because they have kits they can hire.

Necessary materials:
- Filters and 5.3L of oil (I have used low ash Havoline 5W30 for the FAP)
- Large ratchet and extension with 17 and 27mm sockets.
- Small ratchet and extension with 10, 12 and 13mm sockets.
- Phillips head screwdriver.

Info:
- Time spent: 1hr approx.
- Difficulty: Easy, although it seems complicated.
- Estimated cost: It cost me all 98€, nothing like the 200€ they wanted at the dealer.


We begin:

Let's locate the filters first, remove the 2 screws marked in red and pull upwards to access the motor, then I've given you an image, in blue the oil filter, in purple for air, and in red for Dielsel.




Let's go after the oil filter using the No 27, remove the cover as shown:




Once out, we see we have the filter and clamp, we need to extract the paper cartridge and replace it. As well, we'll replace a rubber against the base (right where the thread begins) and at the end of the clamp, it all comes with the filter in a small bag. Once changed, refit it. Caution: Wipe motor oil on the two new join surfaces, so we avoid damage as we tighten the filter.




Now for the air filter: It's the easiest, you only have to lift the clips you see and raise the cover, replace and done.




We'll proceed to drain the oil, and while it settles, under the car we see in the sump guard a pear-shaped hole (indicated in the photo), whereby we can see a 17mm screw, completely remove it to drain the oil (I don't have photos due to the difficult position, but hey, it's easy). Once removed, let the oil run, the seal that the screw carries can be left attached to the sump guard, so be careful. Once drained, replace the screw with new seal and tighten more or less as it was. We've finished. Hint: Before emptying, remove the dipstick and its plug to aid in drainage. To refill, pour 5.3L of oil into the top.



Now for the Diesel filter, the most complicated and laborious, we should remove the filter cover and the tube that goes to the turbo, it has two brackets as in the photo:



Next we see that there are 4 grub screws and 4 13mm black nuts around the filter, we remove them and disconnect all connections to the filter. On the filter support we see 2 12mm screws that connect the support to the black sheet , remove it and pulling upwards everything comes away:



Unscrew the filter, replace and done.

Now we have our servicing done, and for this they charge at least 200 at Hyundai.
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Offline Eureka

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