[Big Al 2]

Hello,

I have a 2013 i30 1.6 Diesel CRDi SE Panorama (manual, no stop/start) and it has developed a parasitic battery drain which flattens the battery within a few days. I have found several references on the internet which look like a similar issue across a range of Hyundai models, but I have not seen a resolution yet.

The drain when the car has been left to sit with everything off for a couple of hours is 0.33 Amps

I have pulled all the fuses in the engine compartment fuse box and the drain reduces to 0.08 Amps when I pull the B+3 (50A) fuse. This is the only fuse that makes a difference. I have pulled all the fuses on the Instrument panel (drivers side fuse panel) and without the Memory 2 (10A) fuse the drain drops to 0.16 - 0.19 Amps. That is the only fuse that makes a difference.

My manual tells me the B+3 protects I/P Junction Box (Leak Current Autocut Device, Fuse – F18/F25/F30/F34/F38). I assume I/P means Instrument Panel, But in the manual there are only fuses numbered 1-37 and Memory 2 is labelled as fuse 28.

The interior lights all work as expected with the door openings, sun roof works fine, I've even checked the glove compartment light goes out when it is closed. Nothing in USB, nothing in CD player, Media player off (but all do work OK when asked)

Can anyone help me out with any suggestions as what to do next, wiring diagrams and what / where this Leak Current Autocut Device is and can be found or anything else that can help.

This is with a new battery of the right spec.

Appreciate your time. 

[BrendanP]

Out of curiosity I checked the parasitic drain on my 2015 diesel and measured it at about 27mA. As I did it with the bonnet open I used a clamp to hold down the microswitch that detects if the bonnet is open. Without having a wiring diagram it's hard to know where to start. A friend of mine with a Skoda Octavia had a similar problem and they traced it down to not slamming the hatchback hard enough when closing it, so the microswitch to detect it was closed wasn't always actuated.

[Big Al 2]

It is a good point to make. I have the multimeter on the windscreen with the bonnet closed and the car all locked up, then I wait for some time to check the drain.

[Big Al 2]

Update is without the Memory 2 10A fuse in place I have found these things no longer function.
1. Electric Door Mirrors
2. Remote Door lock/unlock
3. Passenger Airbag warning doesn't light up when ignition first turned on
Hope that might help confirm any wiring diagram.

The Code on the Engine Fuse Box is 91950-A6721
The P/n on the Driver side Fuse Box cover is P/No:91941-A6641

Thanks

[The Gonz]

Now that you seem to be zeroing in on the set of possible drains, I wonder whether any one or more of them is aged and out of spec. I guess you'll need to know normal quiescent current figures for each.

[Big Al 2]

First I'll need to know what devices are underneath B+3 and for Memory2. Hoping for a wiring diagram. I have been told that main dealers are obliged to provide them, but for now my request to them has not yet been accepted. 

[Big Al 2]

The Fuse board in the drivers compartment has a number of multipin plugs behind it, pull these one by one and check if that stops the drain, First isolate the doors and bonnet open sensors to allow the vehicle to enter sleep mode which I'm told is 20 minutes. In this case it was the "floor" loom which had the problem, pointing to the rear of the car. In this case although the tailgate switch worked fine it had lost it's waterproofing and held the resistance too high. The logic thought the boot was open, although it was shut because of different tolerances and then prevented the vehicle entering sleep mode, so keeping the battery drain high at 0.33 Amps. New boot switch at £70 ! and problem solved. So easy in hindsight.  Important to remember the car takes time to enter sleep mode where the drain drop to less then 0.01 Amp.