[eye30]

Just replaced the rear handbrake shoes, pads and discs on sons FD.

The rear piston just pushed back in by pushing the old pads against the piston.

On my GD the handbrake set up looks different as there is no brake shoe as it looks like the handbrake operates the pads.

Is this correct?


While in the motor factors the chap said he thought the GD piston has to be wound back and you need a tool to do it.

Is that correct?

If so, do you need to use a tool or is it possible to do this without. 

[josh1990]

GD is definitely a wind back. You can get the tool kit from SCA (which is no good for anyone out of Aus  ) for about $85, or you can get pointy pliers and do it manually. Of course the tool makes it poss easy but I managed the wind back pistons on the MIL corolla with pointy pliers just took longer. Yes handbrake is main pads. Don't try and adjust at the pad, they will drag. The handbrake adjustment is under the main compartment in centre console.

[eye30]

Thanks for the info.

Not yet ready to replace pads as still got alot on but useful to know when I need to replace.

[BrendanP]

I've done this on my own car, the pistons do have to be rotated clockwise. I have a caliper rewind kit, but it was quite easy to push back so I could have probably done it with some long-nose pliers. Make sure that you leave the piston so the notches are at the 12 o'clock & 6 o'clock positions, then the notch will engage with the pip on the back of the brake pad.

[eye30]

Cheers.

[eye30]

Can you confirm ..

Does it turn clockwise or anticlockwise?

[BrendanP]

Clockwise. If you watch this video you can see what happens when you rotate the piston.

Hyundai I30 mark 2 rear brake caliper internals - YouTube

[eye30]

Cheers

Due MOT next month and looking the pads and disc appear ok at present time, estimate 50% pad.

But just in case they fail on brakes I know I can buy pads from factors for circa £20 so I can bring home and do myself for fraction of garage cost, assuming they don't slap a don't drive on it!

[BrendanP]

I replaced the rear pads on mine at 54,000 miles because the right side was wearing faster than the other, which I thought was a sticking caliper. They've been wearing evenly since then. As it was still under warranty I bought Hyundai pads. A lot more expensive but very good quality. I replaced the discs at 72,000 miles.

When you buy pads make sure they have the pip on the back to engage with the slot in the piston. When I went to GSF, none of the pads they had listed for my car were correct, and we opened up packs of Bendix, Brembo, and Drivetec to check. I ended up buying Pagid, which were correct and had the added bonus of being supplied with new shim plates as well. I still have those, as I decided later to buy the Hyundai ones.

If your MoT is coming up soon, I'd change the pads afterwards. If you change them now it might take some to bed in properly and attain maximum efficiency. I think minimum pad thickness for MoT fail is 1.5mm.

[eye30]

The pads we were given by the factors for the FD had the pin on the back.

But as the piston was hollow it didn't matter as the pin was in the hollow area.

Wondered why there was a pin on the pad. Now know after your replies  ........ Cheers