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Regarding cluster part number. Have you tried entering you car VIN on http://partsouq.com/ and see which part that throws up for cluster that matches your specific car?
This thread may tell you more about recording of old odometer reading in owners book if new cluster is fitted by dealer. 2010 i30 1.6 CRDi CW Instrument Dash Panel LCD Screen Illumination Problem
One more thing comes to mind. You will see from the circuit schematic "INDICATORS & GUAGES (2)", that the LCD LED connects direct to "CLUSTER GROUND". Can you check if connection to that "CLUSTER GROUND" is good. I would think that to be vital reference for cluster logic circuits to work properly.
just to be explicit: so my part number for the instrument cluster is 94033-2R500. i found a site which lists components. if you check my part number is for multiple configurations and for those multiple configurations there are multiple other part numbers listed as well, so i would think that my part number is compatible with all the listed configuration for it and further all part numbers that list one of those configurations (that is listed for my part number) is also compatible, but obviously i am not sure.
yeah i found that on the schematic but i am not sure how to identify that on the board actually or how to perform test on it actually, can you help me with that?
What are the voltage readings on each of its pins I,G and O? If IGO is In-Ground-Out, you should have 12-14V on I, 0V on G and something in-between, maybe 5V, on O.
measured the IOG as you instructed, I is 11.85V, G is 0V, O is 5.02V so i guess this is alright.
You mentioned multiple configurations of the cluster from that site, that is why I suggested entering you VIN on partsouq to confirm the part for your vehicle.
From Photos and Schematics at test point for "Cluster Ground" is unseen. I could guess that it is the large areas of copper on the copper side of the cluster board, but is just a guess. (I am not an automotive Electrician). The only thing that says Ground or "G" is centre pin of the voltage regulator you posted earlier. I see you have done that already:Quote from: The Gonz on July 25, 2021, 04:21:50What are the voltage readings on each of its pins I,G and O? If IGO is In-Ground-Out, you should have 12-14V on I, 0V on G and something in-between, maybe 5V, on O.Quote from: eLod on July 25, 2021, 20:10:02measured the IOG as you instructed, I is 11.85V, G is 0V, O is 5.02V so i guess this is alright.Personally, with the limitations of available information regarding the circuits and workings of the cluster, I would give up on measurements and go for part substitution to try and solve the problem, even though that means spending some money with no guarantee of a fix.
I assume your ISG problem (Reply #8) was corrected by the new battery. I assume that new battery you puchased was one compatible with ISG?
There should be some large easily visible areas of copper that measure 0V when operating, as a common ground for the board. Other large areas would likely show 12V when powered. The G pin on the regulator should show a short (0 Ohms) to the correct ground rail.But ... I agree substitution is now the smarter option.
In general, all circuit designs have the majority of their components referenced to ground. You can work from a ground pin at a connector (or the regulator G pin) and then from that reference, look for short-circuit contact across the board (with the power off) or probe to find the 0V points with power on. I'm not convinced you will gain very much from exploring in this way without a good schematic.I've reverse engineered complete circuits just probing and track tracing, then drawing up a schematic, but not to this complexity.I tried finding a datasheet for the MB90F025F, a Fujitsu embedded microcontroller, but no luck.
I have just done a search and found this thread on hyundai-forums: Parasitic Battery drain B+3 | Hyundai ForumsWhilst I do not think that link will help you with your cluster problem, it may help others searching "parasitic current draws" on here in the future. Of interest is a door/tailgate switch fault affecting the logic, preventing the car entering into "sleep mode".
I may be going over old ground (pun unintended) but this can get confusing. Is parasitic draw present with all the door switch pins disconnected? If so, the problem will be elsewhere. Another way to check is to ensure every door switch is transitioning cleanly between 0V and 12V. Also, is the cabin light on while it happens? Disconnecting cabin light or removing its globe might eliminate one more doubt.
the drain is present if i connect the 4 door pins directly from instrument cluster to bcm, leaving out the door switch paths totally
Quote from: eLod on August 12, 2021, 11:12:29the drain is present if i connect the 4 door pins directly from instrument cluster to bcm, leaving out the door switch paths totallyThis sounds like you can assume the door switches are not the problem unless there is a path from the BCM to the switches elsewhere.
Any non-standard aftermarket add-ons or signs of DIY modifications? GPS, dashcam, reverse cam?
Has the latest power cut-out safety modification (at the battery and engine fusebox) been done correctly?
QuoteQuote from: The Gonz on 3 hours agoHas the latest power cut-out safety modification (at the battery and engine fusebox) been done correctly?sorry, i am not sure if i understand what you are asking
Quote from: The Gonz on 3 hours agoHas the latest power cut-out safety modification (at the battery and engine fusebox) been done correctly?
Dear Hyundai Customer,Hyundai is recalling certain Hyundai vehicles produced between Aug. 17, 2005 and May 14, 2011.Our records indicate that your Hyundai is affected by a vehicle safety recall that requires the installation of a relay kit in the anti-lock brake (ABS) circuit.When in contact with moisture an electrical short within the ABS module may cause an engine compartment fire, even when the vehicle is turned off, as the circuit is constantly powered. This could increase the risk of serious injury to occupants, bystanders and property. We therefore recommend the vehicle is parked away from flammable structures e.g. not in a garage.To correct this potential concern we request that you contact an authorised Hyundai dealer to arrange a time to have this procedure performed. This work will be carried out free of charge. A list of Hyundai dealer locations and service department contact details can be found atwww.hyundai.com.au/dealer.Please present this notice to your Hyundai dealer when attending your appointment. We understand that due to Coronavirus, you may have reservations about attending your local dealership, or the dealer may be operating reduced hours for the short term. We recommend you to contact your dealer to confirm the process relating to Good Hygiene for coronavirus (COVID-19) and their operating hours. The health and safety of you and Hyundai dealer personnel are the priority.
Quote from: eLod on August 12, 2021, 11:52:57QuoteQuote from: The Gonz on 3 hours agoHas the latest power cut-out safety modification (at the battery and engine fusebox) been done correctly?sorry, i am not sure if i understand what you are askingAbout a year ago Hyundai sent me a letter to have a power cutout circuit installed as a change to the fusebox near the battery, and it included an extra connection to the battery as well. It is designed to cut power to some system components that would otherwise keep being fed 12V, considered a fire risk if moisture got in.
@The Gonz Is this the fuse box recall you mentioned: Recall HYUNDAI R/2020/059 - Vehicle Recall UK
Good progress but without a board in my hands increasingly difficult to follow. The spare board should be a big help. I'm not fully understanding the effect of the diodes but don't forget they typically contribute .7V each as a voltage drop when forward biased.