The Original i30 Owners Club

Flat Battery

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Offline spanishmike

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My car has been standing for 5 days and the key fob would not open the doors. I opened door with the key there was no life in the car whatsoever even the digital clock was dead. The car is 15months old and this is the first "breakdown" I have read some of the old threads on the subject but I am obviously concerned. A neighbour started the car with jump leads and I checked that no lights had been left on. I've been on a long run and everything seems ok but I have lost some faith in the product. A complete mystery!!


Offline Dazzler

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Sorry to hear that mike.. The only thing I can think of is an intermittent short somewhere... How switched on is your service dealer?
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Offline Shambles

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Make sure the light in the hatch/boot extinguishes when you close the lid
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Offline spanishmike

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Checked hatch/boot lid both go out on closure

Our service dealer is good but my spanish is not that good!!

I will call in next time I pass it is always a challenge on my language skills


Offline eye30

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Battery will still be within warranty. 

Ask them to do a drop test and ask for a new one.
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Offline Mike SX

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Our service dealer is good but my spanish is not that good!!

Bill (from County Durham), works at Hyundai Torrevieja, local call from you (in Murcia) 966703989, although he is in Sales he liases (in Spanish), to his Workshop there for any problems.


Offline Lorian

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Maybe its the ignition sticky tumbler syndrome causing the lights to stay on, as a few other have reported.


Offline spanishmike

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Thanks for all your advice will go to the dealership and report back with their findings


Offline Shambles

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Thanks for all your advice will go to the dealership and report back with their findings


compaƱero de la buena suerte
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Offline spanishmike

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Been to the dealership they could find no reason why the battery had gone flat BUT as the Navigator has stopped working  asked how I had restarted the car. Apparently as it was started with jump leads from another car rather than a static battery it has damaged some "relays"(not sure about this got lost a bit in translation) and I am now awaiting new part(s) from Madrid. I doubt this will be covered by warranty


Offline Dazzler

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Been to the dealership they could find no reason why the battery had gone flat BUT as the Navigator has stopped working  asked how I had restarted the car. Apparently as it was started with jump leads from another car rather than a static battery it has damaged some "relays"(not sure about this got lost a bit in translation) and I am now awaiting new part(s) from Madrid. I doubt this will be covered by warranty

Hope it doesn't set you back too much...Yes, you have to be really careful using jumper leads with all these electronics.. (although some times no choice)  :'(
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline Mike SX

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Been to the dealership they could find no reason why the battery had gone flat BUT as the Navigator has stopped working  asked how I had restarted the car. Apparently as it was started with jump leads from another car rather than a static battery it has damaged some "relays"(not sure about this got lost a bit in translation) and I am now awaiting new part(s) from Madrid. I doubt this will be covered by warranty
So, the only guaranteed safe method would be to remove the discharged battery, fit a temporary spare unit, run and use the vehicle as necessary, recharge the original, and replace. Following the i30 operating manual directions for jump starting may be no guarantee of avoiding damage (page 6/4-6/5) :eek:
Sounds long winded and disruptive, there must be a better way, realising, of course, that the (diesel sized) jump leads are connected in the correct order, and not necessarily battery terminal to terminal, e.g. -ve to -ve can cause battery damage, so connect -ve of booster battery to any good, solid, ground that does not move, also since -ve flows to +ve, by using the frame of the vehicle, (i.e. bonded), this could ensure that the connection is at the same potential as the vehicles electronics etc.


Pip
What I've always done is use good (thick) jump leads and connect to second car but do not start the donor car. When a car is idle (not started) very little is connected to the battery; clock and stuff like that only.

In this way I believe the likelyhood of "cross-contamination" is much reduced if not eliminated.

Does anyone else have a thought on this? I must admit I thought the only problem with not starting the second car could be failure to start if the recipient battery was too flat for instance.


Offline Dazzler

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I have taken the risk on several occassions of starting my ride on mower with 200amp jumper leads froim the i30 and was under the same impression as you Pip...

Minimal risk if I did not start the i30... Didn't seem to do it any harm (used the Tiida once since trading the i30 but got a higher rated mower battery now as wouldn't like to try it with the more complex electronics on the Hybrid  :eek:)
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


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