[zatos99]

G'day,

I only post on here when I hit a dead end, and most of the time I get a bloody good response!

Context: was changing the clutch, eventually got through it, was driving better than it ever had. It had a dead battery in it and the next day I planned to get a new one. In the morning I jump started it with a standalone jumper, and the display indicated approx 60A - I don't think that is abnormal for a starting situation (correct me if I'm wrong). The first try I had cranking and almost a turnover, but because I had being playing with the fuel filter, I had to walk to the engine bay to press the primer. During this time I left the jumper attached, and en route to the engine bay I noticed smoke coming from the MAF area. From that point on, no cranking at all.

The ECU gave me a P0101 and P0113, which is inline with the smoke I saw at the MAF sensor. Before any attempts at fixing, the condition at turning the key is; {inside cab} a normal click near the passenger side in the dash (a relay I'm guessing), and a singular click from the starter relay in the engine bay.

I've tried;

• replacing the starter relay
• replacing the starter motor
• replacing the MAF sensor
• checked all fuses that could be remotely related to starting

The first time I cleared the MAF codes (before replacing it), I got a fraction of a second of cranking, then back to nothing with the codes back on the ECU. After replacing the ECU, I cleared the codes again but this time got nothing.

Im about to advertise it online as a sea anchor, before I do can anyone give me any advice or things to try?

Car is a 2009 i30cw CRDi FD 85kW

Cheers

Has the ECU been reprogrammed for the keys/immobiliser?

[zatos99]

Thanks for you're reply.

ECU has not been reprogrammed, are you inferring it should?

From what I've read, yes, I had to have it done on a Ford many years ago, are you getting an immobiliser warning light on the dash when you try to start?

[zatos99]

I have had issues with the immobilizer light flashing in the past, but have repaired the barrel and get a typical steady light (compared to the blinking light, which still allows me to crank but will never turn over). I also don't think it's related to my problem due to the symptoms.


Speaking of, NEW SYMPTOM: Neither headlights or dash lights dim when turning key to try starting, only the radio dims. All three of these components used to dim upon starting and do so on my iLoad.

[zatos99]

Update (for those who care):

The problem was the earthing cable from the car body to the transmission body. Guess you could call it unlucky, but the resistance right next to the earth cable (on the transmission) was ~50-70 ohms...due to dirt between the cable contact and the transmission. Using a jumper cable from the battery to the transmission body proved the problem and it started.

After a sand back and a serrated washer to 'bite' a bit more, we're back in biz. Myself and a mate concluded that due to the poor earthing, the current must've decided to go through another path (of less resistance); the MAF circuit.

Unusual to not see Dazzler or the other OG guys, maybe on holidays😂

Thanks PGN I30 for your input

I was wrong but well done on fixing it, a relatively cheap fix aswell, 👍

[TerryT]

Update (for those who care):   The problem was...

Thanks PGN I30 for your input

Thanks for the update (I care  ).   PGN I30 had a go, braver man than me, electrical problem-solving zaps my remaining few brain cells.