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Agents quick guide to fitting lowered springs to your i30 :)

agentr31 · 38 · 38090

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Offline agentr31

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well here it goes, lets hope it is useful to someone! my guide to changing your springs,

this took me 2.5 hours you can probably do it faster if you dont have a million ciggarettes and drinks while your doing it LOL but i was in no hurry so meh

tools you will need, NOTE no specialist tools are needed!

12mm spanner
14mm spanner
17mm socket
19mm socket
21mm socket
2x hydraulic jacks (this will make sence a touch further on)
2 car stands,
rattle gun makes life easier but a standard ratchet/breaker bar will do the trick
spring compressors
leather gloves (or the nice mechanics ones if you have them)

lets start at the back and work our way forward

1- jack the rear of the car up and place some car stands under it for safety! you can see i have jacked it up in the middle of the rear sub frame, if you dont have a rattle gun now is the time to crack the wheel nuts, before you lift the car up off the ground!



2- remove the wheels, using the 21MM socket



3- now you have the wheels off we can look under the car at teh suspention, nothing special here...

you need to remove the 2 lower bolts and nuts, the one holding the shock absorber on to the hub and the one holding the hub to the lower controll arm! (i think its 19mm)



3- take note of the position of the jack on the lower controll arm this is important! as you will be moving it up so you can remove the bolts from the hub! then after you have moved it up/down to get the bolts out easy




4- start jacking it to almost the top of the suspention travel as you jack it up you will notice that the hub moves out a bit when its almost at the top pull the hub out of the arm! just pull it out from the arm with a bit of force and it should pop out, then you can let the jack off giving you access to the spring!



5- push the lower control arm down untill the spring becomes unseated and you can tip it over a bit and get it out!

clean the dirt out of the spring rubbers then start putting it back together, make sure the rubbers are on in the right spots, fit it back in.

lift up the arm with the jack and wriggle the hub back into the hub, attatch shockie.

make sure the suspention is at normal height before doing up the bolts, this is so the bushes arent under stress, then do up bolts, put wheels back on, remove jack stands, let the car down slowly and BAM


now for the front, its slightly more complex but if you have done the back and not struggled, then it will be just as easy!

1- jack the car up by the sub frame in teh middle then place jack stands at each side

2- remove wheels



3- loosen off the top strut bolts, with your 14mm spanner. remove the back two, and leave the front one on about 3 turns, this will hold it there when the hub is removed from the strut!



4- take the 12 mm spanner and remove the two bolts holding on the brackets for the brake line, and ABS sensor wire, now is a good time to remove the sway bar (17mm nut just up and to the left of the main hub bolts)




5- now its time to remove the hub from the strut! loosen off the 2 bolts right behind the ABS and brake lines (19mm from memory) im pointing at the top one!



6- now you have the hub loosened off remove the bolts, then pull it out and tip it to the front of the car so there isnt any preassure on teh lines and its out of the way

then grab the strut lift it up and remove the last bolt (make sense now why i left it ;) )



7- mark the top plates to each other with white out, paint pen, what ever, then mark the bottom spring plate to those marks, this is important!!! make sure you do it!!

put your spring compressors on like so, and start compressing the spring untill its not being held captive! use a 17mm socket to remove the top bolt thats holding the plates on to the spring/shokie arm (its in the middle at the top)



then do the opposit to re-install!! you wont need the spring compressors to get the new spring in, IT should be JUST captive, you can push it down a touch to get enough thread for the nut to get on!

8- put the strut back in, 3 bolts on, then 2 hub bolts, put the sway bar back on, then the ABS and brake lines, wheels back on, car stands out, jack out.... done

now take the car for a drive, and enjoy it!! dont forget, it will lower a touch more as the suspention settles in








Offline Duckman

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A few questions:

1) How does it feel to drive?
2) Does the front strut brace thing make much/any difference?
3) When are you getting nice 18/19" rims?!

 :mrgreen:

Cool picture tutorial!


Offline Dazzler

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Terrific contribution Ian.. You are on a short list for MOM (member of the month) LOL...

Pleased with the result? Hasn't made the ride too harsh?

Thanks again (great work)  :mrgreen:
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Offline agentr31

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A few questions:

1) How does it feel to drive?
2) Does the front strut brace thing make much/any difference?
3) When are you getting nice 18/19" rims?!

 :mrgreen:

Cool picture tutorial!

1 - on the road pretty much the same, when you go over a speed bump you notice it

2 - it "feels" a bit firmer in the front end especially when going down a kerb at an angle where the body would normally flex, might be in my head tho... you probably need track times to find that one out!

3 - ummm not for a while now... seeeing as i need body work done, and ive just spent a bit of coin on the maxima (new stereo, bling grille) BUT it now gives me an excuse to get a rear spoiler for the car!!! if its going to have paint work done may as well get as much done as possible!

LOL MOM award!! *agent wonders if there is a cash bonus for this*

i am pleased with it!!!


Offline Shambles

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Nice work Ian, and great pictography :D

LOL MOM award!! *agent wonders if there is a cash bonus for this*

Just send us an invoice.

We need a laugh :lol:
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Offline agentr31

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Offline Dazzler

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LOL MOM award!! *agent wonders if there is a cash bonus for this*


Early in the life of the club I "gave out" a couple of these but then as we got more members it started to get complicated, there was talk of taking a vote etc..  :rolleyes:

(prestige only I'm afraid no reward) :lol:
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Offline mantaray

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Very good walkthrough, ala "Thumper" and his walkthroughs-should be made a "stickie"


Offline Seoul-mate

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Great stuff Agent!!
Nice job.
Russ
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Offline 2i30s

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nice job Ian,just make sure you enter and exit driveways on an angle so as not to tear the lower part of the front bumper off. trust me, I've nearly done it twice now.
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Offline Dazzler

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nice job Ian,just make sure you enter and exit driveways on an angle so as not to tear the lower part of the front bumper off. trust me, I've nearly done it twice now.

Good advice Steve.. Ian would be beside himself if he damaged his bumper (and I don't know if we could cope with two of him on here..) Nearly as bad as two of me ... :wink:
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Offline agentr31

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LOL 2 of me... im sure the i30 club would love that :P

yer i know to enter and exit at angles LOL all my cars have been lowered :eek:

your probably right... any walkthroughs should be made stickie so its right up the top and easily accessable! depends if the mods feel like doing it tho!

thanks guys for the kind words!


Offline Dazzler

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I have "stickied" this topic (although from experience people tend to overlook stickied topics) :rolleyes: 
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Offline Shambles

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I have "stickied" this topic (although from experience people tend to overlook stickied topics) :rolleyes: 

Even better where it is now :D
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Offline 2i30s

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I have "stickied" this topic (although from experience people tend to overlook stickied topics) :rolleyes: 
where steves put it i dont think it will be missed,SUSPENSION,CANT MISS THAT.  :razz:
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Offline Dazzler

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I have "stickied" this topic (although from experience people tend to overlook stickied topics) :rolleyes: 
where steves put it i dont think it will be missed,SUSPENSION,CANT MISS THAT.  :razz:

I thought Steve was just "thinking aloud" about what we were going to do with Ian's account when he first joined and used some choice language.. :wink: :lol:
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Offline SRT Metro

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Offline 2i30s

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I have "stickied" this topic (although from experience people tend to overlook stickied topics) :rolleyes: 
where steves put it i dont think it will be missed,SUSPENSION,CANT MISS THAT.  :razz:

I thought Steve was just "thinking aloud" about what we were going to do with Ian's account when he first joined and used some choice language.. :wink: :lol:
yeh im a bit of a potty mouth too,i need to be carefull when i post.  :lol:
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Offline agentr31

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LOL!!! i am a bit of a swearer... i wont lie... its REALLY hard not to drop teh f-bomb on here!!!


Offline syecadelic

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Agent, I just completed the fitting of my springs. The rear springs were slightly different to fitting tha n what you had suggested. I found you had to remove the anti-roll bar and also remove one of the bolts from the lower arm, the one nearest the spring, and also required a lot of jigglin.

Also for my car, diesel, needed a 19mm for the strut tower centre bolt

Apart from that very useful :)
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Offline agentr31

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ahh you dont have a korean build one do you!

there may be a difference in the struts!

i dont see why the rear suspention is different, mabey a revision for a newer build? mines a december 2009... would be interesting to have some photos to compare!


Offline syecadelic

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mine is korean i think
chasis is KMHDC

september 2008.
Ill try and get some pictures at the weekend when I get time. think because it was in an enclosed space we took off those other bolts to make it easier, and im not exactly the strongest of guys  :razz:
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Offline Dazzler

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ahh you dont have a korean build one do you!


Yours would be Korean built too Ian (all OZ ones are...) :goodjob:
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Offline syecadelic

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well mine is a diesel? so possible differance maybe with the front struts?
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Offline agentr31

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dunno... i thought you would have a european build one considering you are in the UK...


Offline syecadelic

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nah was only teh 2009 models upwards that started to be built in the czech republic, better built apparently aswell form what I was told. dont know how that possible.
The newer built ones lost the wee cuby hole ontop of the centre dash.
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Offline Dazzler

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nah was only teh 2009 models upwards that started to be built in the czech republic, better built apparently as well form what I was told. dont know how that possible.

There are a few components the Czech factory use (Shock Absorbers, Glow Plugs etc..) which seem to be different and possibly not quite as good as the Korean ones. The QC of the paint on some cars also seems to be a weak point of the Czech factory...  :cool:
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Offline trsc27

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As far as I know the petrol springs are the same, the front ones are a little less stiff due to not having to deal with a lump of iron in the front of the car.

My experience of the springs are:

 - Badly corrugated roads make the ride very jiggly, normal roads you feel the bumps a little bit more but certainly not uncomfortable

 - Up until the point I got them out in, I was driving a Mazda 3 SP23 which scrapes its nose on everything, which prepared me for it, the lower nose on the i30 isnt as low as the mazda anyway so i never has a problem with it

 - The car doesnt roll anywhere near as much in the corners, roundabouts are quite fun now and long sweeping corners on country highways put a big grin on my face, not to mention the benefit when I took it to lakeside last week (in combination with the stiffer rear swaybar of course)

All in all if you want a bit more sporty feeling rather than the softer comfy ride the car normally has I can recommend it highly :)


Offline Burnzy

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Hi just wondering . do you know what the ground clearance is empty and what it would be fully loaded


cheers jamie


Offline 2i30s

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I'm not sure of the actual measurement,but my car is pedders springs lowered and I've gone over numerous speed humps and never scraped one yet. my springs are 35mm lowered,it really makes the car about 2" lower than stock.
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