[Bazlord_Prime]

Hi all!

First problem I haven't quite found an existing match for on here! Thanks to you all for making this outstanding resource what it has become over the years.

Yeah, so as per the title, I've got a problem with the Electronic Stability Control. I guess? It started just over a week ago, straight after we washed the car, but it went away after one day, so I assumed it was just wet brakes or something. It just came back yesterday (it has been raining quite a bit around here), and has become more consistent today, and I was able to figure out a few particulars of it:

- the car sometimes shows the ESC light while also grabbing at the wheels (don't know if it's the brakes being actuated, or what);
- it happens ONLY on right-hand curves, not while going straight, or steering left;
- it seems to happen only at ~70 kph and higher, and the higher the speed, the harder the grab on the wheels and the longer they (pulses) last. Which can be very disconcerting;
- turning off the ESC each time I start the car does stop this from happening, but I really want to fix this.   

I've read a few threads on here from folk having the issue with the ESC light coming on above 80 kph, but didn't get the impression that anyone was experiencing this pulsing grab on the wheels, making the car dive and wobble as it goes round a bend at 80-90 kph, so that's why I wanted to start a new thread. Seems to me this is tied into steering geometry as well as speed, but I don't know what that means. I'm also aware of the clutch switch angle that's been discussed before, but I haven't gotten to grips with what it means/how I can check that out.

Also, I saw on another thread that Hyundai Australia issued a notice about broken ESC systems for vehicles in a certain VIN range, and mine falls within that, but it also says that the the ESC warning light would be on if the ESC is broken, and mine only come on when the car is having the above issue. Also, I'm not the original owner, so I don't know if this vehicle has already had the fix.

Thanks all for reading, and looking forward to chatting about it.  Cheers!

Baz 

[Bazlord_Prime]

UPDATE:

Parked the car with the wheels on an angle this morning and noticed that both the front tyres are worn down to the belts on the inside, which is a known problem for my particular car, and - looking on here - plenty of other folk.

So, whoops! Sorry for time-wasting. I gave both tyres a feel before that in order to check the tread, and it was fine, but I never would've seen the worn inside without parking on an angle. I'm *assuming* this is the root cause, but if it's still happening after 2 new tyres, I'll update this.

Thanks all!
Baz

[Shambles]

Thanks for the update. Don't just change the tyres - sort out the alignment too.

[Bazlord_Prime]

Thanks for the update. Don't just change the tyres - sort out the alignment too.

Thanks Shambles. We got an alignment done, but we always do, and this problem always persists to some degree or other. There's plenty of threads on here about people with the same issue - some dating back over ten years for ~the same model as mine - and I haven't seen yet if anyone managed to sort it out. We just keep getting the same reaction from the wheel aligners: "did the best we could, they're still not great, you can't do a full proper alignment on these models as they don't have any adjustable <something or other. Sorry - can't remember what it is>."

[The Gonz]

I had horrendous wear on my fronts until I took up maintaining tyre pressure at 41PSI - never had a problem since!

[Shambles]

... tyre pressure at 41PSI - never had a problem since!

Typical engineer's solution. Keep the rubber off the road and it can't wear out

[Bazlord_Prime]

I had horrendous wear on my fronts until I took up maintaining tyre pressure at 41PSI - never had a problem since!

Thanks Gonz - is that front and rear?

[The Gonz]

I had horrendous wear on my fronts until I took up maintaining tyre pressure at 41PSI - never had a problem since!

Thanks Gonz - is that front and rear?

Yes, 41 all around

[TerryT]

... tyre pressure at 41PSI - never had a problem since!

Typical engineer's solution. Keep the rubber off the road and it can't wear out :lol:

GOLD!!!    (Just caught up with this thread).

[TerryT]

@ Bazlord Prime.  Front tyres being worn down to the belts on the inside typically suggests first checking if the tyres have too much negative camber (i.e top of the tyre is tilted inwards a bit).

1.   Do you know what the oem alignment specs are for your model, especially the camber. (As an example, below are the specs for my 2018 PD).  If you don’t know, a phone call to your wheel aligner or Hyundai should help.

2.   Did your wheel aligner tell you what your alignment specs were when they first put the car on their aligner (especially the camber spec)?  If so, what were those numbers?

3.   Did your wheel aligner give you a print-out of your alignment specs after they adjusted your wheels, as “best they could” 😊.  If so, what were those numbers?

It is just a thought but if your camber cannot be adjusted back to oem specs through the normal realignment process it may be that a suspension component etc is broken or bent…though an experienced wheel aligner should have found this while examining the suspension etc.

You aligner said they: “…can't do a full proper alignment on these models as they don't have any adjustable <something or other. Sorry - can't remember what it is>."   I’m guessing he is saying that your car model doesn’t have oem adjustable camber bolts.  I believe Whiteline Suspension (tel: 02 4340 2355) would carry those for your model.  Maybe give them a ring and discuss.  They are big in the suspension/performance business and when I used to buy from them, they were very good with technical advice about their products.

See picture below of generic adjustable camber bolts.  I don’t think they are that expensive, maybe $40~$50 pair from Whiteline? 

But I am not sure that using adjustable camber bolts (with their +/- 1.5 degrees variation) to drag your tyres up to a more upright position will give you enough acceptable negative camber.  That is why it would be good to know just how much negative camber you have at present.
 
For example, if your oem camber should be say, 1 degree negative and your tyres presently are at a guess say, 4 degrees negative, then even if you used the adjustable bolts' maximum +1.5 degrees swing, the best negative camber you can get is -2.5 degrees (4 degrees less 1.5 degrees) which is still roughly 1.5 degrees too high (2.5 degrees less 1 degree oem).  This is just a very rough example because of some unknown variables and a coffee-deprived mind.

I would check with Whiteline first then ask your wheel aligner if those adjustable camber bolts (+/- 1.5 degrees) will do the job and if so, how much to fit them.  Your wheel aligner could also buy them in for you if you wanted him to fit them.  Fitting adjustable camber bolts is not a hard job in itself and you could do it if you’re a bit experienced with working on cars.  YouTube would have a few relevant DIY videos.  The accompanying Whiteline instruction sheet with the bolts is fairly good.  Then you take the car to the wheel aligner.


Above is included just to give you some idea of wheel specs (if you didn't know. )




That's me out! 

[TerryT]

Thanks for the update. Don't just change the tyres - sort out the alignment too.

Thanks Shambles. We got an alignment done...[but] We just keep getting the same reaction from the wheel aligners: "did the best we could, they're still not great, you can't do a full proper alignment on these models as they don't have any adjustable...."

@ Bazlord Prime.   Any info on what your camber specs were (re my post on 03 June) and if adjustable camber bolts are a solution?  I know I'd like to hear how it all went (and probably so a few other forum members who were following your story).

Cheers, TT