i30 Owners Club

Clonking noise in the front?

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Offline Elpadrino

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I have a clonking noise (when drive over Manhole cover/Well cover?) , small bumps, etc) in the front (have changed brake discs including pads, timing chain, spindle link left & right, anti-roll bars left & right, shock absorbers and bearings left & right, link arm left & right, inner steering link right) and cannot find from where (yet) anyone that have any good suggestion where to start looking after the clonking noise? Maybe somone has a good photo/film of where to look?

Sorry for the bad English
  • 2007 FD 5 Door Hatch, Petrol 1.6lt, Manual, Silver


Offline Greyhound

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    • gb United Kingdom
Is it just on one side. e.g. nearside or right side of front of car (Sweden being LHD).
Are you able to reproduce the clonk under laboratory conditions. Maybe by bouncing the car. Otherwise find an area with a bump or hole that will cause the clonk. have someone stand at that clonk zone location to listen as car moves over the clonk zone to hear where the noise is coming from (static observer).
Have you checked for anything loose. Exhaust, Battery, Engine mounts etc.

Others with FD model may have an idea of what is likely to clonk on that model. How many Km has it done.
  • i30 PD 2020 1.0 T-GDi


Offline eye30

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  • Wirral, UK. - 1.4 Petrol Active - Aqua Blue
When I had my fd I had noise under car and it was the exhaust box moving and hitting the underside.

Check that out.
  • 1.4 Petrol Active I'm no expert, so please correct me if


Offline Cope

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Hi, I had a similar problem with my i30 2011 1.6crdi 90hp, I visit a lot of mechanic stores and no one can find cause of the problem, every one say that suspension parts are 100% ok, After some time I recognized that clonking noise get stopped after I press brake pedal a little bit, so I check brake pads by myself and saw that I have play (or looseness) in the front brake calipers, after that I reassemble holder of brake calipers and changed both caliper sliders, with new copper grease and new rubber gasket, here is images of old and new sliders, you can see that old slider have a lot of dots from vibrating and clonking, new sliders didn't have any looseness or play, partially they get vacuumed in the hole for caliper slider. Please tell me did I helped you to solve your problem... Latter I heard that most of 1st series of i30 have same problem with caliper sliders.












« Last Edit: November 02, 2024, 00:21:16 by Cope »
  • I30 2011 1.6crdi 90hp


Offline Elpadrino

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Wow, thanks for quick respons and all good advice I´ll look into those as soon as can...

Short, the noice is comming from both side as far as i can "hear" will see when will look into your suggestions
  • 2007 FD 5 Door Hatch, Petrol 1.6lt, Manual, Silver


Offline Elpadrino

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Hi! Still haven't been able to found out what the reason of the clonking sound is yet after looked inot all of yours suggestions, but I was thinking of if those who changed the spring and shock absober maybe they have missed the "Spring seat" ( i guess that´s correct name?), and unfortunatelly I haven't been able to look into that thought yet but will do during the week? I wonder if anyone have any thoughts about my new idee?
  • 2007 FD 5 Door Hatch, Petrol 1.6lt, Manual, Silver


Offline pidim

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Offline Pnut

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I had a clunking from the front on our FD when going over road bumps, it was the anti roll bar links.
  • 2011 FD 5 Door Petrol 1.6 Auto Red


Offline BrendanP

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It's always worth checking the condition of the caliper slide pins, they're not expensive but DON'T use copper grease to lubricate them. They are usually supplied with a sachet of silicone-based grease. I doubt they'd be responsible for the clunking over bumps.

As previously mentioned, check the engine mounts. They have an elastomeric core which can perish and fall to bits, allowing the engine to rock excessively or bounce up and down. The extra movement could allow the exhaust to knock against other parts. The knocking I've ever had has been caused by worn drop links. I don't know how old the existing ones are, but cheap pattern parts may only last for a couple of years.

If you can find someone to bounce the car hard enough and fast enough to recreate the clunking, you should be able to walk around and home in on where it's coming from. I wouldn't have thought the spring seat would be an issue because the compression of the spring should keep everything squeezed together.. Check the upper front strut mounting bolts are tight.
  • i30 CRD


Offline Elpadrino

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Thanks, I'll check the engine mounts as soon as I'll get to the garage... Updates will come later...
  • 2007 FD 5 Door Hatch, Petrol 1.6lt, Manual, Silver


Offline Elpadrino

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Hi! Think we have found the clonking noise/sound and it seems to be the upper engine mount that I now have ordered a new one that will be replaced probably next week.  Update will follow... :Good_luck:
  • 2007 FD 5 Door Hatch, Petrol 1.6lt, Manual, Silver


Offline Elpadrino

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Unfortunately, the clonking noise/sound is still there even though everything below has been replaced, not sure  where to look now, but I'll not give up yet :crazy1:
I’ve replaced:
•   Anti-roll bars Right and Left
•   Swivel joints Right and Left
•   Rear brake discs
•   Front and rear brake pads
•   Timing chain
      o   Sprocket
      o   Slide rails
      o   Tensioners
•   Shock absorbers Right and Left
•   Shock absorber bearings Right and Left
•   Control arms Right and Left
•   Engine mounts
•   Catalytic converter
  • 2007 FD 5 Door Hatch, Petrol 1.6lt, Manual, Silver


Offline BrendanP

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Did you check under the air filter to make sure nobody left a spanner or hammer under there?
  • i30 CRD


Offline Elpadrino

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Thanks,yes I've swapped to a new filter so nothing there
  • 2007 FD 5 Door Hatch, Petrol 1.6lt, Manual, Silver


Offline Elpadrino

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BTW, the sound is typically like those from worn "Anti-roll bars and the Swivel joints" but as said those are swapped out already...
  • 2007 FD 5 Door Hatch, Petrol 1.6lt, Manual, Silver


Offline Greyhound

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    • gb United Kingdom
Is the battery held down properly.

You really need to apply more ears (passenger with window open) to better locate the issue, otherwise you could end up with a "new" car made up of replacement parts. 
  • i30 PD 2020 1.0 T-GDi


Offline Elpadrino

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Thanks, yes the battery is held down properly. But I personally have suspected that it could be the drive shaft (i think it has approx. 1mm slack but maybe that is correct?) on both side but it has been disgarded by more knowledge people, so if anyone have experinceis/knowledge around that it would be appriciated...
  • 2007 FD 5 Door Hatch, Petrol 1.6lt, Manual, Silver


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