Limp Home Mode

Mike SX · **November 29, 2012, 18:16:25**

2009 CRDi Manual CW, intermittently into limp home mode for about a year, Dealership said "could be fuel line fault", this fault was "rectified", and recorded as "Historical". They also reset the ECU. Since gone into limp mode 11 more times, and recovered before I could return to the dealership. I have returned the vehicle yet again and they have now rang and asked me to collect the car and use it for sometime with the Cruise Control disconnected, and test it for them! This "could be the problem". Cruise Control was included in the original purchase of this new i30. They have also replaced the brake light stop switch twice, apart from several other unrelated issues.
The vehicle is now unreliable for any use and they now say that there is "little more they could do".

Anybody have any other ideas? I would appreciate any feedback.

Asterix · **Reply #1: November 29, 2012, 19:26:06**

Oh, those damn periodically faults are so fuc...g hard to solve.

I do understand that you don't want to have your car back.

Let the mechanic/tech that is working on your car, drive it to/from work, if it doesn't give you any insurance problems. Then he can have the computer attached to your car while driving it, and hopefully be able to register the fault.

Alternatively, if your dealer say they can't fix it, demand that the tech's from the Hy HQ come and assist/take your car to their workshop.

Phil №❶ · **Reply #2: November 29, 2012, 19:27:59**

For us to help, we would need some details about exactly when or what triggers limp mode. You need to do some detective work and detail as much info as possible, otherwise we will only be guessing. Sounds like the dealer needs the car to be driven, which is why they want to return it to you. I'd take it back and drive it myself rather than have them "test driving" it to who knows where.

Shambles · **Reply #3: November 29, 2012, 19:44:59**

There will be codes stored in the ECU for these faults. It would be interesting to see which ones show up when the OBD port is accessed.

Mike SX · **Reply #4: November 29, 2012, 19:59:37**

During the past year, all these have been tried. When I have asked which codes were generated, I have been told "only historical", no fault code shown ! They return the car with the ECU "cleared" - as if the fault has been corrected!
This doesn't sound correct to me, it's obvious there has been a fault, so what is the point of recording it, unless it can point you in the correct direction, ie. No on board diagnosis available ?
Seems strange.

Dazzler · **Reply #5: November 29, 2012, 20:30:46**

Hi Interphase, Nice to see you on but sad it is in these circumstances

I assume you have tried Hyundai UK for assistance (otherwise that has to be the next step)

Extremely frustrating (sure sounds like Fuel system issue to me) When the problem occurs does it only rev to 3000RPM ?

What actual occurs when it goes into limp mode?

We will do all we can to help diagnose (although it is difficult)

Mike SX · **Reply #6: November 29, 2012, 20:48:52**

Thanks Dazz.
Yep, maybe fuel (whatever), that was my thoughts. It is flat out at approx. 30mph in the 4th. Intially they thought it could be water in the fuel filter, but they say all ok. They have always serviced the vehicle; as it was due. Engine runs fine, starts easily, just won't rev.
On two occaisions, it has occured when the fuel guage indicates just under half.

Lorian · **Reply #7: November 29, 2012, 21:01:43**

No specific advice on the i30 but over various other cars I've seen go in limp home mode intermittently it's been mass air flow meter or crankshaft sensor. Only easy to diagnose by pulling the codes as other have said. There are probably at least 6 sensor failures that can cause it.

Dazzler · **Reply #8: November 29, 2012, 21:07:05**

Quote from: Interphase on November 29, 2012, 20:48:52

Thanks Dazz.
Yep, maybe fuel (whatever), that was my thoughts. It is flat out at approx. 30mph in the 4th. Intially they thought it could be water in the fuel filter, but they say all ok. They have always serviced the vehicle; as it was due. Engine runs fine, starts easily, just won't rev.
On two occaisions, it has occured when the fuel guage indicates just under half, and I have simultaneously floored it.
I usually fill with Esso.

The reason I specifically mentioned 3000RPM is this is the maximum revs the engine will rev to if there is a fuel system failure as per what happened to BOB (Ouri30) in the early days of this club.. From memory his car went into limp mode after that.

They had to replace some components of the fuel system as well as the filter to fix it .. I will try and find a link to his thread. Might be a different problem but sounds similar

One link I found...

https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=2694.msg24680#msg24680

and another...

https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=2878.msg27077#msg27077

Mike SX · **Reply #9: November 29, 2012, 21:38:59**

Thanks Dazz, I have previously read these reports, one is significant; if you accelerate around a fairly tight corner, under half full, the problem manifests.
I have tried to tell the Service Receptionist, who repeatedly, as I have noted, does not absorb this helpful information.

Phil №❶ · **Reply #10: November 29, 2012, 23:38:32**

Quote from: Interphase on November 29, 2012, 21:38:59

Thanks Dazz, I have previously read these reports, one is significant; if you accelerate around a fairly tight corner, under half full, the problem manifests.
I have tried to tell the Service Receptionist, who repeatedly, as I have noted, does not absorb this helpful information.

You need to bypass the receptionist, make name contact with the service manager and log your details in written form and provide this when the car is in for repairs. The more info you can give them, the quicker they can find / fix what is wrong, it's win / win for you both.

Alasama · **Reply #11: November 30, 2012, 03:02:02**

We have a champion owner of i30cw CRDI 1.6 4AT here, who (also a member of this club but seldom make posts) faced similar problem for 14 times, and some also for several times. After a series of repeat inspection and testing by the dealer for many months, fortunately I did not hear similar issue recently.

From the information they released, seems about fuel filter system, something like the density of the filter material inside the filter housing. Density of old type filter was higher than new type filter (though they looks the same). Service centers already changed to supply new filters, and meanwhile re-ensure the correct procedure of installing/changing the fuel filter, to make sure smooth fuel flow through the filter system and preventing possible air existed in there.

Just for reference, because I did not participated the inspection/testing activities.

Dazzler · **Reply #12: November 30, 2012, 09:07:28**

Good luck Mate.. Hope everything else is going better for you

Mike SX · **Reply #13: November 30, 2012, 11:07:39**

Just spoken with the Dealership Owner, the fault code & GSW indicate 2 related problems; the cruise control unit & accelerator pedal unit.
Hyundai (UK) are unwilling to allow both unit replacements simultaneously, so the cruise control module will be replaced next week - as a process of elimination, ie. the customer becomes a manual ECU, thereby assisting Hyundai GSW etc.
He stated that they had already rectified a previous i30 with this issue, by replacing the c/c module.
It's a pity that Service Reception failed to remember, and explain as such.
Thank you all for the input.

Dazzler · **Reply #14: November 30, 2012, 11:09:52**

Our pleasure.. Hope they fix it this time

TazManiac · **Reply #15: November 30, 2012, 21:07:05**

Good luck mate. My wife had issues with a Holden Viva which would go into limp mode but by the time we got it to the mechanics the first few times it was fine again. No codes found. We kept getting your to drive it until it went back into limp mode. After I reckon 10 times I said that enough was enough and got it towed to the mechanics while in limp mode. Still no code found. Turned out they didn't even have the correct scan tool for our car... Eventually they got the right tool but had been driving it to see what happened and the fault cleared itself again...

Longer story shorter, the car just died one day and wouldn't start again. Horrible situation. Got it towed again and was told that the piston had basically smashed the head. it was going to cost $2000 to get it fixed. It could have possibly been sold for $4500 when fixed but ended up selling it broken for $2000 to a car yard to save the hassle.

Dazzler · **Reply #16: November 30, 2012, 21:09:23**

That's a terrible story Aaron

Mike SX · **Reply #17: December 01, 2012, 09:07:46**

Quote from: Dazzler on November 30, 2012, 21:09:23

That's a terrible story Aaron

My sentiments exactly.
I'm still not convinced that it is the cruise control/accelerator mechanism, but I'm not party to any codes etc.
Twice, when pulling out of a junction & turning sharply, under half full, limp mode operates.
Not a good time when you need to accelerate into a constant line of traffic.
So I will keep the vehicle under half full and regularly check it.
Collecting the vehicle today.

Dazzler · **Reply #18: December 01, 2012, 09:13:08**

Maybe the Interphase is playing up...

At least you don't seem too ~~phased~~ fazed

In all seriousness though a drop in power when pulling out into traffic is a real worry (and a safety issue)

JASON6912 · **Reply #19: February 05, 2013, 23:16:59**

I had the same issue with mine going into limp mode after my brake light switch was replaced. It turned out to be a faulty brake booster, the brakes were being applied after a short time of driving. the ESP system shuts the throttle off if the system thinks you are BOTH accelerating & braking & puts the car into limp mode. I hopefully get my car back sometime this week from being repaired.

Mike SX · **Reply #20: February 23, 2013, 15:17:17**

Limp Home Mode has started again.

Braking, then accelerating out of a slow left hand turn, with the tank full.
(Previous occasions, under half full, and right hand turn).
ESP comes on, initially hesitant on acceleration, then into Limp Home Mode. Lifting foot off pedal seems to clear itself and accelerates, ESP light still on, pull up, switch off, starts working OK for a short time

Back to Dealership, yet again.....

Dazzler · **Reply #21: February 23, 2013, 19:46:40**

Quote from: Interphase on February 23, 2013, 15:17:17

Limp Home Mode has started again.

Braking, then accelerating out of a slow left hand turn, with the tank full.
(Previous occasions, under half full, and right hand turn).
ESP comes on, initially hesitant on acceleration, then into Limp Home Mode. Lifting foot off pedal seems to clear itself and accelerates, ESP light still on, pull up, switch off, starts working OK for a short time

Back to Dealership, yet again.....

Sorry to hear that

(a right pain, or maybe in this case a left pain)

If it's not you, it's the car (You are having a bad trot)

2i30s · **Reply #22: March 10, 2013, 22:23:30**

Quote from: Interphase on February 23, 2013, 15:17:17

Limp Home Mode has started again.

Braking, then accelerating out of a slow left hand turn, with the tank full.
(Previous occasions, under half full, and right hand turn).
ESP comes on, initially hesitant on acceleration, then into Limp Home Mode. Lifting foot off pedal seems to clear itself and accelerates, ESP light still on, pull up, switch off, starts working OK for a short time

Back to Dealership, yet again.....

has the fault been fixed yet?

Berocca · **Reply #23: March 11, 2013, 00:34:40**

Sympathy to all those suffering Limp home mode.

I've had the same issue and fingers crossed it is now resolved. After having this go on for some months my vehicle was finally (after some incorrect diagnosis's and head scratching) diagnosed with a 'Fuel Bug'(cladosporium resinae). At first I was skeptical and thought that the dealer was trying to shirk their responsibility. The dealers fix was to drain the tank, flush and refuel at my $600 expense. The dealer emailled me some photo's of the fuel sample and a black growth could be seen in the fuel. I told the dealer not to go ahead with their fix and did my own research, mainly on here!

I found out about a product called Fuelmaster and gave the company a ring and told them of my predicament. They told me straight up that they were glad I called as they could save me some money! Apparently the fuel bug is quite common (increasingly so) and is easily treated. Draining the tank and refilling was not going to solve the problem as the bug needs to be killed otherwise it would just breed up again. I have since taken delivery of the fuel master added a healthy dose 100ml (well over the usual dosing of 2.5ml per 10L) and re-filled the tank to the brim with caltex vortex then left the vehicle for the weekend. The fuel master works by bonding any water in the tank to the fuel molecules so that it can be passed through the engine and burnt normally. The water in the tank is the problem as the fuel bug grows on the interface between the water and the fuel, with no water in the tank the bug cant feed and dies. My vehicles symptoms were worse when the tank was low presumably as this was when the intake was sucking in more of the bug.

It's early days but my vehicle is running better than it has in a long time, apparently any of the dead black fungal material left in the tank will be collected by the diesel fuel filter.

SO far so good. If anyone out the is having problems such as the 3000 rpm cut out or the engine losing power and cutting out I strongly suggest you give a fuel treatment such as fuelmaster a go. Fuelmaster is not cheap at $70 per litre, but is does treat 4000L of fuel so will hopefully keep my diesel tanks bug free for some time.

Shambles · **Reply #24: March 11, 2013, 08:06:00**

Thanks for the feedback Berocca

Very hand information

Mike SX · **Reply #25: March 11, 2013, 11:05:23**

Quote from: 2i30s on March 10, 2013, 22:23:30

has the fault been fixed yet?

Circumstances has prevented me from returning the vehicle yet.
The fuel problem is interesting, usually happened when under quarter full, never happened brimmed up, but this occasion I only filled to three quarter, (only had £50 on me), drove 10/20 miles - went into limp home mode. Cleared itself on next morning start up. At some point I will have to return it, in the meantime it's more sensible if locally used, rather than a dealer using it as a possible pool car "on test", returning it as "fault code cleared", empty etc.
Maybe something "permanent" will happen before I return it, just hope I'll be lucky with the location.

Mike SX · **Reply #26: March 22, 2013, 17:51:16**

Just happened to be near the Dealership today when the Engine Management warning light, (on this occasion), remained illuminated - instead of the usual ESP illuminating/off/on/off/on/off & with frequent bouts of LHM, then "clearing" itself whilst accelerating, and EM light occasionally illuminated; not necessarily at the same time as the other two.

Left the vehicle running, Technician connected up the OBD and announced that it indicated a faulty accelerator position sensor. Just lately, when stationary, with the ESP light on the vehicle would tickover at 1200 revs, the ESP light would even illuminate when coasting, things changed daily.

He will obtain a replacement, book the vehicle in for 2 days, (presumably to test), and carry out the work.

Asterix · **Reply #27: March 22, 2013, 18:17:09**

Finally a faulty unit found, good to hear...

Hope this will solve all the problems...

Dazzler · **Reply #28: March 22, 2013, 19:50:05**

Quote from: Asterix on March 22, 2013, 18:17:09

Finally a faulty unit found, good to hear...

Hope this will solve all the problems...

Exactly

Mike SX · **Reply #29: March 22, 2013, 19:53:42**

Quote from: Asterix on March 22, 2013, 18:17:09

Finally a faulty unit found,

Thanks to you both, but,

maybe it should read "Finally yet another faulty unit found"