[gary73]

Hi there, I bought led cob bulbs from China for turn signal light. I'm having an issue with hyper flash, but the seller told me the current absorption was 21watt this doesn't seem in reality. Does anyone have the solution for hyper flashing?
Many thanks Gary

[Dazzler]

Hi Gary, I think the solution is a resistor somewhere to adjust the flow of current. Think it has been addressed on here before. Hopefully someone else knows more and can point you in the right direction. 

[Phil №❶]

It would be pointless to replace a 21w bulb with 21 w led's. You need an electronic flasher unit, which are commonly available on eBay, not expensive.

Just 1 of many examples, ensure you get the correct pin orientation.

electronic flasher for hyundai i30 | eBay

[gary73]

Wow, are you serious? I'm astonished cause the seller/workshop told me there is no relay on this car (i30 2012 new model crdi). Can you tell me Phil where to put the new resistor when I'll get it? I really appreciate your help. Gary

Ps. I think that all models are different according each country market specs

[ibrokeit]

but the seller told me the current absorption was 21watt this doesn't seem in reality.

Yeah - you are right.  'Current absorption' (which I take to mean how much current it will draw) for an LED being the same as incandescent bulb it is replacing isn't reality.  For an automotive LED 'bulb', esp. an indicator, that would be extraordinarily bright (not to mention heat dissipation, etc.).

You will probably find the 21w was, originally, in reference to the brightness -  i.e. equivalent brightness to 21w bulb - as traditionally, for incandescents at least, people equate/equated the watts with brightness.   I am guessing the vendor mis-understood that, or purposely mis-represented that - it can be hard to know which sometimes, when marketing and/or answering questions about it.

[gary73]

Thanks ibrokeit, I think you're right. Btw I'd love to know where to put this electronic flasher unit as Phil told me

[Phil №❶]

You already have one fitted, but it is incompatible with the led's. It's the device that makes the ticking sound under the dash. Simply, pull out of its connector and plug the new one in. You will need to remove the plastic housing covering all the wiring under the dash.
Here's how,

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[gary73]

Edited - sorry I misunderstood your last post.
Good Phil I'll take a look tomorrow (it's midnight here )

[gary73]

You already have one fitted, but it is incompatible with the led's. It's the device that makes the ticking sound under the dash. Simply, pull out of its connector and plug the new one in. You will need to remove the plastic housing covering all the wiring under the dash.

Got it. I'll try tomorrow to have an idea. Gary

[ibrokeit]

Thanks ibrokeit, I think you're right. Btw I'd love to know where to put this electronic flasher unit as Phil told me

I see Phil has answered.   Doing a search I see there is apparent confusion about there not being one.  Personally I would find it suspicious if there wasn't... for redundancy things like brake lights, indicators, etc. are rarely under the direct sole control and/or driven by the ECU electronics, etc. only - though they often detect the lights (or actions related to their operation) and/or be able to interact with them (e.g. headlights remaining after parking to light  the way to a building).   I suspect people, inc. vendors/dealers, maybe assuming that 'electronic' means part of the car's computer.


And while, other than to warn that there is problem with an incandescent bulb, there isn't really any physics based reason for an electronic flasher to hyper-flash...  it is easier/cheaper to produce a unit tailored to replicating behavior of an older 'analog' system (replacing it with something else if required).   Of course that, inevitably leads, to people then fitting new systems and because of being mis-informed or not wanting to touch something (damaging something they don't know about) coming up, or using from similar situations, work-arounds to solve the problem when a replacement would be easier and often cheaper.  Quite often the 'solutions' are posted on the internet as the 'one' answer.

Don't get me wrong, in some situations such work-arounds are very valid and useful - restoration of electronics or cars for example where you want to keep everything original as possible but have to replace something and original replacements are just not available and/or too complex to custom fabricate.   Or you have to fit/replace something due to legal requirements - vintage radios with two-core mains i.e. no earth - they very rarely, if ever, would meet 'double insulated' requirements so require chassis grounding... requiring the cable to replaced, some restorers go to the trouble of sourcing cloth covered modern cable or make their own (including if possible removing the cloth covering from the original cable).

However often it can also be lack of knowledge - a slightly tangential example is many musicians will tell you 'valve amps make music sound better'... and I agree subjectively, the music sounds 'warmer' with a valve amp (or pre-amp) - objectively the 'warmness' is actually noise from the valves in the audio signal.  But a lot don't understand that and go around thinking the more valves the better and/or all their sound equipment should be valve based...  which isn't really needed, non-vavle electronic amps (without DSP) simply amplify near exactly (much more exactly than valves) what they receive, so as long the 'warmth' is on the input, it will be on the output.

[Phil №❶]

The conventional flasher fitted to non LED cars is a resistive type, requiring the heating of a bi metal spring by the current draw of incandescent bulbs to heat it. As LEDs do not draw much current, the spring just breaks contact the quickly cools causing hyper flashing. An electronic unit has a timer circuit and is not affected by bulb current draw for it's correct operation.

A bit late now as you've already bought the LED's and resistors but for future reference you can buy the LED's with resistors already built in LED Bulbs - Turn Signal and Brake Lights - Load-Resistor Free - Shark Racing

NOTE...don't buy resistor free LED's from China, guaranteed they're a scam or rubbish and wont work without inline resistors being added.

On further inspection the one's I linked look like P type instead PY, hopefully they might be able to provide PY type as well but you may have to contact them first.

[gary73]

Here I am and as I promised I took some pics (not that good sorry) taken underneath the stearing wheel and fuse dash cover. Actually I dodnt find any relay or similar down there. Need help ;(

[Asterix]

The flasher relay is placed up right by the instrument cluster. You need to take your arm up by the clutch pedal, all the way up behind all the electrics then you'll find the flasher relay. It's not easy to get at.

Replaced it on mine 6 month ago... 

[Phil №❶]

Turn your indicators on, you should hear it clicking   

[gary73]

Hi asterix, do you mean behind the steering wheel? I have at transmission

[gary73]

I've seen something similar to a relay, that is green and it's right behind the dash fuse panel, LH driving car

[gary73]

Yea I did it today and it appears to come out from the dash fuse panel, the one in the first pic

[gary73]

That panel is too tight to place a relay and it is closed behind. Something green as a relay is up behind the dash fuse panel, close to the air intake

I'll try to double check but it's hard without a pic helping me. Thanks for your suggestions

[Asterix]

You don't need to remove the white fuseholder. You need to get you hand up behind it to access the relay...

[gary73]

Ok asterix I'll try better tomorrow

[ibrokeit]

The conventional flasher fitted to non LED cars is a resistive type, requiring the heating of a bi metal spring by the current draw of incandescent bulbs to heat it. As LEDs do not draw much current, the spring just breaks contact the quickly cools causing hyper flashing. An electronic unit has a timer circuit and is not affected by bulb current draw for it's correct operation.

Yup yup yup! Very much so.

What I wrote was on the basis of what I thought I had been said that all i30s had electronic flasher units even though they had conventional bulbs - maybe I misunderstood that.  Are they electronic flasher units in i30s or conventional?


One of the things I was trying to get at was - when replacing something 'conventional' with an 'electronic' controlled equivalent, depending on the situation, the electronic unit will be designed/programmed to replicate behaviors of the 'conventional' unit... including expected behavior to a fault condition even though the behavior in the conventional unit was caused by physics and that reason/effect isn't applicable to the electronic unit (but it will detect it and behave 'appropriately').

[gary73]

Well actually I guess mine is electronic flasher instead of conventional relay. I took a look up behind the steering wheel and I saw nothing similar to a conventional relay. Getting mad for that. The ones of you that found it is black or what colour? Gary

[Asterix]

From mine FD 2008:

[gary73]

Oh I see asterix you had to unscrew the white fuse panel, correct? And the black cover too

[Asterix]

Oh I see asterix you had to unscrew the white fuse panel, correct? And the black cover too

No, the only reason the white fuse panel is removed is because I didn't know how to access the relay.

I was told by the Hy dealer the relay would be placed up behind everything, but the only way I could locate it was by applying the hazard lights and then feel where the relay was.

[Asterix]

The black cover you mention is the complete dashboard, you don't want to remove that.. 

Place yourself on your back with the head where your feet is when you drive, then reach up behind the dash and clutch pedal with your right arm, then you'll find the relay....

[gary73]

Really appreciate asterix, thanks. I'll keep you updated.
Of course before I buy a new one is better take a look at it (3 pins) as in the pic posted by phil

[xerox]

For those trying to pursue the same path, I was also unable to find the flasher relay on my 2012 i30. Like Gary, I managed to find a green module, that looked sort of like a relay, but I wasn't able to unplug it.

Upon further research, there are posts saying that the i30 GDs have flashers are all controlled electronically and no actual relay exists. The only solution to the hyper flash problem would then be to use power dissipating resistors... though I'm not entirely sure where to put them...

[Phil №❶]

Power dissipating resistors will offset the electrical advantage of using led's though.