[tw2005]

Well the i30CW I just got literally crapped itself about an hour ago. Was running flawless then suddenly the gearbox dropped to neutral.

I had just stopped at a house to pick up a headlight assembly, reversing out I was  trying to angle the nose so the front did not bottom but failed and copped a good knock.

Selected D,in gear drove off about 20-30 metres in 1st then suddenly engine RPM flared, no Drive. Select R get R but harsh, Stuck in third but can go manual 2nd, manual 3rd,no 1st no 4th.

have to manual shift 2-3 that's it.

I think I may have smelt something like electronics burn, could be in my mind.

I know the harnesses can suffer solder fractures. Hoping it's that but do these have a separate transmission computer?

I know the main ECU is in the engine bay.

Any help appreciated, about to embark on a very slow 70km trip back to base where I'll use my hatch for fault finding parts but just not sure if I'm on a goose chase for the TCU.

I guess the workshop manual should clarify this.


Also, no error codes or lights on the dash yet

[Dazzler]

Bugger! I'll summon the troops.. @cruiserfied  @nzenigma  good luck hope it's not too expensive!

[tw2005]

There's an acrid electronic odour in the engine bay mainly near the fire wall. Initially thought ECU,pulled it out no odour at all. Just before it went to shit the dash display was flickering.then stop. I started the car and then after about 10 sec total death.

No more gear indication, engine lights or coil lights.

Thinking ECU I pulled it out,was going to open it up but then plugged said dead ECU into dads and all lights were good, coil  light etc was good and of course the immobiliser light was blinking due to mismatch.

so ecu is good I feel, just don't understand now what it may be unless the dash is part of the issue, weird

[tw2005]

Still working the problem but found the primary issue and cause of the acrid smell. I don't know the exact names of these sensors without a reference but looks like a speed sensor at the back of the box has sheared and shorted to earth. The front sensor also was  off and I have not touched these.

The front sensor (input speed sensor) Looks like there is some corrosion and hard to get seated so most likely incorrectly fitted.

The back sensor (output speed sensor) reeks electronic burn.

Since the dash was flickering I'm saying it was bouncing on the gearbox casing and has blown something.

I just can't find what cct looks after the Gear display, coil ccts etc.

Hoping someone with in knowledge get s back to me soon.

The sensors will be a piece of piss but this secondary damage is driving me nuts, if only I knew then what I know now I could have isolated the short and limped it home.

Bugger.

[tw2005]

Final piece of the puzzle, Fuse No. 11 in the engine bay fuse box 10amp,open cct.

Looking at this sensor 4262039051 the plastic looks real brittle and heat affected.

So I'm going to replace both.

[beerman]

Good work!!

Hope it roars back to life for you. How many k's does she have on her?

[Dazzler]

Don't think the tag I did for tech help via tapatalk (on my phone) worked... Fixed it now. Hopefully one of them pops up! 

[Paolo5]

Final piece of the puzzle, Fuse No. 11 in the engine bay fuse box 10amp,open cct.

Looking at this sensor 4262039051 the plastic looks real brittle and heat affected.

So I'm going to replace both.

Good luck!!

[The Gonz]

I do enjoy these dynamic problem resolution scenarios, a bit like watching a mix between The Inventors, Grand Designs and The Amazing Race. Keep up the great sleuthing, @tw2005 

[tw2005]

Good work!!

Hope it roars back to life for you. How many k's does she have on her?

This one 169K, my hatch I got it at that and it's 191k nil issue with that one.

The wagon has had a rough life but it has been serivice by Hyundai recently as it has the srvice sticker an d has a genuine air filter.

Motor is good, trans is smoother and better than mine.

But it looks like it's been in the sun a bit or in high heat maybe NT. Previous owner was Army.

[The Gonz]

Previous owner was Army.

Bloody military.
That should mean proper servicing since new.

[tw2005]

Now back to the transmission speed sensor. Photos can not reproduce the beautiful aroma of a burnt out electronic part, but heres some shots.

My previous vehicles have been Mitsubishi and I know a fair bit of Mits designs or engineering have been in Hyundai for ages.

The A4CF2 is no different and is based on F4A41/42 Mits except the valve body arrangement is definitely different.

I had the pleasure of a F4A51 Magna box go which was a wty job / "Rebuilt to Mitsubishi Specs" by fluid drive that lasted a whole 60 000k, a long story.

I kept some parts and sensors from that box( rainy day / hoarding syndrome)

Just got back home and all the way I'm thinking I've got those sensors I may be lucky.

Physically is the same , connector type same, just not sure about internally.

Will let everyone know, it may work ok, may not. Looking at part numbers and aftermarket numbers they're not matching  but I'm giving a shot anyway. It's just a magnetic pickup surely it'll be close(LOL)

This is the failed sensor put back together, it did not shear off, more likely burnt away and popped out. Notice the tip of the sensor is raised like heated plastic, Looks like this was burning away internally and got hot.

[tw2005]

Previous owner was Army.

Bloody military.
That should mean proper servicing since new.

"Q" ee, need I say anymore

[asathorny]

Good luck 

[tw2005]

Nothing is ever simple. here's the list of sensors all compatible with this one,


Output shaft speed sensor

   4262039051   SPEED SENSOR SHAFT PPC
   
   4262039100   SPEED SENSOR SHAFT PPC

   4262039200   SPEED SENSOR SHAFT PPC

Input shaft speed sensor

4262139052

4262139100

4262139200

   
   
   

[tw2005]

And some pretty images on locations. The parts numbers shown are two suitable examples on this box.

[Dazzler]

Interesting to follow the saga.

[tw2005]

Interesting to follow the saga.

It's my speciality, it'll be rare you'll get a short version   

[Dazzler]

[nzenigma]

Thinks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
A hard knock ( impact) you describe would not normally cause this problem . Its probable that past repairs have left some wiring that is vulnerable eg. insulation stripped , therefore it shorts out.
The turbine speed sensors (pictured) are wired in parallel .
 They have three leads; the same 12v supply goes to pin 3 on the front and the one on the back of the trans. They have a common earth (pin1).
 Pin 2 are separate signal lines to the PCM.
You say you have exchanged the PCM and find its ok.????
In normal use a sensor will draw little current; so to cook it, you have to short pin 2 to ground or to the 12v supply.
So I would be looking at the plug on the burnt sensor, the wires are close together, if it has been stressed they could touch each other.
The sensor may have been cracked before you thumped it. But you will need to put a meter on the wiring before you replace it because it will cook again.
As said..just thinking hope this helps.

[tw2005]

Thinks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
A hard knock ( impact) you describe would not normally cause this problem . Its probable that past repairs have left some wiring that is vulnerable eg. insulation stripped , therefore it shorts out.
The turbine speed sensors (pictured) are wired in parallel .
 They have three leads; the same 12v supply goes to pin 3 on the front and the one on the back of the trans. They have a common earth (pin1).
 Pin 2 are separate signal lines to the PCM.
You say you have exchanged the PCM and find its ok.????
In normal use a sensor will draw little current; so to cook it, you have to short pin 2 to ground or to the 12v supply.
So I would be looking at the plug on the burnt sensor, the wires are close together, if it has been stressed they could touch each other.
The sensor may have been cracked before you thumped it. But you will need to put a meter on the wiring before you replace it because it will cook again.
As said..just thinking hope this helps.

Yeah, I think it's coincidental but could be some dodgey work previous. Already I had replace the LH headlight as the bulb clamp was broken and someone siliconed the globe in and had it perfectly aligned with the trees.

All I've done with the PCM was hook it up to another i30 to find the gear indication and engine/coil lights worked which i lost in the process (fuse 11)

The input sensor I found disconnected but that may have been because the wiring harness is also attached to the valve body harness and got pulled when I removed that.

It certainly was very hard to get seated and latched so I feel that one was not on all the way.

So are you alluding to potentially wiring issue cooking it?

It was running 100% fine and the failure was catastrophic with no prior signs of it going.

What has me curious is how the two parts separated unless it was already fractured and someone pushed it together with the pins still connecting.

Comparing the mitsubishi sensor housing to this one I am wondering if some water has ingressed in between the two parts and started a burn which then made it more conductive and shorting more burning it out.

That would make sense based on what you're saying what would need to happen for a burn out to occur.

The quality of the moulding does look less than that of the Mitsubishi equivalent and there is an air gap after mating the pieces together of the Hyundai unit.

[tw2005]

something else, there is not a mark or scratch on this suggesting it's been impacted. The whole scenario is unusual .

[tw2005]

something I would like a hand with is two things are now present which were not before after fuse replacement.

Check engine light (orange engine) and the ESP off is permanently on.

I'm hoping the check engine light is the missing trans sensor but the ESP off, is thatsomething that needs a dealer to clear?

I'm thinking with all the fuse and relay pulling I may have triggered the ESP and if it's anything like the Airbag systems in cars, I'll need a dealer, just hoping not.

[nzenigma]

Was it the sensor on the back of the trans? The sensor and wiring can get damaged when they are forgotten or caught when pulling the motor out of the car. So it will be pre-existing.

The ESP should go out once you are driving again. Just hard lock left and then right. Ignition off then restart.  ESP will stay on if the steering centre has been changed. A normal workshop will have the programme to reset it. (2 minutes) Don't worry about it yet.

Back to the cooked sensor. Yes I am saying that you have 3 connections. ---
 negative / chassis (pin 1)
 signal out to PCM ( centre pin 2)
 +12v  (pin 3)
The sensor can be cooked if either negative or +12v is applied to pin 2.
However, an internal fault inside the sensor will effectively do the same thing.

I'm not into coincidence. The thump you gave the car is responsible for this drama. Something was already faulty and shifted about.

[tw2005]

Was it the sensor on the back of the trans? The sensor and wiring can get damaged when they are forgotten or caught when pulling the motor out of the car. So it will be pre-existing.

The ESP should go out once you are driving again. Just hard lock left and then right. Ignition off then restart.  ESP will stay on if the steering centre has been changed. A normal workshop will have the programme to reset it. (2 minutes) Don't worry about it yet.

Back to the cooked sensor. Yes I am saying that you have 3 connections. ---
 negative / chassis (pin 1)
 signal out to PCM ( centre pin 2)
 +12v  (pin 3)
The sensor can be cooked if either negative or +12v is applied to pin 2.
However, an internal fault inside the sensor will effectively do the same thing.

I'm not into coincidence. The thump you gave the car is responsible for this drama. Something was already faulty and shifted about.

I'm heading down there in an hour or so to put this mits sensor in. Also on the busted one on the pickup it's expanded protruding and has been touching the internals

[nzenigma]

Just came to mind. Did you check under the car to see where you made contact? That may give you a clue.
Did you hit the transmission pan? There are internal connections that have been known to cause problems.
That said, they do not appear to be connected to the sensor in a way that it would cause it to fry. seems like you are heading in the right direction.
Good luck

[tw2005]

Just came to mind. Did you check under the car to see where you made contact? That may give you a clue.
Did you hit the transmission pan? There are internal connections that have been known to cause problems.
That said, they do not appear to be connected to the sensor in a way that it would cause it to fry. seems like you are heading in the right direction.
Good luck

No it was the engine cradle that struck. I did get under for a look, looks like the tow hook, not a mark on the trans.

Anyway, the sensor out of my F4A51 trans is in and 100% operational. Saw no evidence or issue with the connector or harness. The input sensor from the mits the connector is oriented different but still could be installed and used which I may go ahead and do in the future but for now juts saved $90 keeping that bit.

As far as the errors, The ESP eventually went out, doing the lock to lock bit did nothing and the engine lamp extiguished too whilst doing a 10min drive, now back to waiting on my  alternator clutch pulley, hopefully monday

[The Gonz]

Noyce bit of progress.

[nzenigma]

Noyce bit of progress.

Precisely, but where have you been when we needed you most?

[The Gonz]

Noyce bit of progress.

Precisely, but where have you been when we needed you most?

Diversifying my electronics engineering career into international engagement.

Robert Noyce - Wikipedia