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Is not better or worse. Is the same as before. No vibrations in the clutch, but my car is 110k km only. The only improvement was when i have removed the slack in the push rod. before..i couldint engage gears. That was at 40k km. Bad idea to buy a demonstrator car!!! Now, engagement point is at aprox 5..10mm from the floor.I will post some pictures with the things i have done there.All the best!Eugen
6.5 year old FD i30 6 speed manual i30 and problems are starting to creep in. Every issue I have had, I google and up crops someone else with the issue on this forum (clutch shudder, broken power window).I've noticed my clutch bite point is now starting only a few cm off the floor. ...
Hi @constipated , mate what are your current Kms ? You mention clutch shudder when did that happen and was it resolved?Cheers GPS your mechanic is probably a dinosaur who is still comparing the early 2000 models of Hyundai and Toyota..
Quote from: nzenigma on March 04, 2018, 20:42:45Hi @constipated , mate what are your current Kms ? You mention clutch shudder when did that happen and was it resolved?Cheers GPS your mechanic is probably a dinosaur who is still comparing the early 2000 models of Hyundai and Toyota..I've only done 100,000 km. The clutch shudder I refer to relates to the issue mentioned by many with loud vibration or humming in higher gears between 1800-2000 rpm in manual diesels. I raised up this issue before end of warranty. I know that people had the issue rectified if they had clutch and/or flywheel replaced. In my case Hyundai found a flywheel out of balance and replaced that. It did not fix the problem and they wouldn't replace the clutch under warranty so I've had to put up with it. So on top of that I've had the current issue and a broken driver's side power window which cost $400 to fix. So, far from my mechanic being a dinosaur, I'm the one facing all the issues from my Hyundai. I certainly wouldn't say it's been my most reliable car.
@kamikazeeugen Thanks for the reply, no problem with your English I have not come across the wear on the pedal mechanism that you describe. Especially puzzling at such low kms.Im assuming it was the original part. Also assuming you have bled all the air out.I have a thought that your pressure plate has collapsed, the round steel spring that does the hard work can crack,but the clutch will still work, adjustment will be out of position. But usually the clutch can be made to slip.Given that you have modified the rod, and are obviously handy with tools, why not lengthen the rod? if you can find an adjustable one at the junk yard, adapt it.When you lengthen the rod , if there is a problem elsewhere, the hydraulic components wont respond correctly.
I would therefore look at the clutch pressure plate.
Quote from: nzenigma on March 05, 2018, 08:28:20I would therefore look at the clutch pressure plate.By that do you mean worn clutch or something wrong with the clutch pressure plate.I'm a bit unsure now what to ask the mechanic to check. 1. No air in system 2. Slave cylinder and pin 3. Master cylinder.Can he assess the clutch pressure plate without taking the whole clutch and gearbox out? Should I get him to try to remove the master cylinder damper first? As was mentioned earlier shouldn't a worn clutch actually cause the bite point to go higher?
Thanks for the update Con, what was the cost?
Quote from: Dazzler on March 16, 2018, 08:20:08Thanks for the update Con, what was the cost? The plug which replaces the damper is just an oil sump plug which is cheap. The cost was mostly labour doing the diagnostics, of getting the master cylinder out, putting it back in and refilling new clutch fluid and bleeding the system. Probably $150 or so. I had a service and brake pad replacement as well so it's difficult to say exactly how much to look just at the clutch system.
Update:new video of same issue in an FD i30 diesel: Hyundai i30, Low Clutch, Gears Grinding - FIXED - YouTubeAgain removing the damper appears to help.My car went to the mechanic today. Pointed him to the videos and he stated that his preference was to replace the damper rather than remove it, or the whole master cylinder but when he checked, the damper didn't come as a separate part and the master cylinder was >$400.So went ahead with removing the damper only and replacing with oil sump plug.Verdict: much improved. At least a few extra cm before the clutch bites. Can feel more vibration and pulsation through the clutch pedal but I can live with that. Hope this temporary fix lasts.Add low clutch bite point to the common problems affecting FD i30 diesels.
Update:Add low clutch bite point to the common problems affecting FD i30 diesels.
Quote from: constipated on March 16, 2018, 08:18:27Update:Add low clutch bite point to the common problems affecting FD i30 diesels.Curious! The removal of the damper solved your problem, but the damper is also on the petrol vehicle, no complaints so far.@tw2005 you are our main man . Your clutch is low. Check for air in the line, if no improvement after a bleed , get a sump plug and report back immediately.
Here is a pic from EPC. It's from 1.6 crdi, but I would assume same damper might work with petrol. At least here it gives some sort of part number (41690-2H100).
Yeah that is from FD. I thought we were talking about FD Yeah I have EPC for hyundai (older models). Bought it from emanualonline few years ago. Its a copy. Virtual image which works with VMwareplayer, like the GDS i have.