[jazz]

The injectors are tested in a specialized shop for common rail systems.
They removed the injectors from the car and connected them to a machine that simulates the running engine with different pressures and loads.
Every injector is tested in 37 diferent stages of load and pressures and carefullyi examined.
The complete common rail system high pressure pump and rail pressure are tested and are ok there is nothing wrong with it.

I will attach test for only one injector since the other 3 are identical.

The turbo is also checked and it is ok no oil in intercooler or hoses from turbo to intercooler.
EGR is tested, maf too is tested.
I went to many certified mehanics and hyundai dealers and no one can find what is wrong or why the oil is rising so fast.
A spent a lot of money for all those tests, over 600 euro with no result and I am starting to believe that all experts are working somewhere else but not in Croatia.
So I made this post here in hope that someone has the same or similar issue.

what I found on my own is that when the dpf sensor is disconnected the consumption drops from 7/100km to 5.5/100km
The reg starts with disconected sesor but only 2 times i 1000 km.
Before almost every 50km.

A think I have found a solution after carefully examining the diagnostic data which I posted above with data that  posted "tw2005" which helped a lot.

I found that the number at REGENERATION DEMOND 1682 is in fact mbar.
When you make the calculation from the chart that "tw2005" posted  it says that 14.5 psi i s full clogged dpf which is 1000 mbar.
But the interesting part is when I measured the dpf sensor with multimeter there is a good reading not going above 1.7v in full load and when you look at the table from  "tw2005" that is 20 % cloged but on live diagnostics while driving under acceleration the diferential pressure  goes over 4500mv and starts from zero again.
I believe that the ecu is not reading the sensor correctly and when it overshuts under hard acceleration i triggers the regen.

And in the diagnostic tool one of the options is Reset pressure sensor diesel particle filter.
So I will try that and see.
If this does not help I will order a new sensor and see.
I don't now why but still no answer from hyundai must be the holidays.
If I have somthing else I will report here.
Thanks to everyone for their help.

[nzenigma]

Hi @jazz

Brilliant! 

The reported excessive regeneration in Mazda and Hyundai cars has interested me for some time. \
 Thanks for your input. The ECU misread seems a reasonable conclusion.
 Cheers

[mickd]

A rather definitive  testing of parts WITH written proof 

[ideal09]

Hello my friend, welcome to our i30-oil-rising team. I faced the same problem with you one year ago and i have done a lot of research on it. My car have exactly the same symptoms with yours. The problem is in the software of the ECU. The problem is the same with i20, but in that case hyundai announced a software update.

i30 GD 1.4 CRDI 2012 oil RISE

[Dazzler]

 

Hello my friend, welcome to our i30-oil-rising team. I faced the same problem with you one year ago and i have done a lot of research on it. My car have exactly the same symptoms with yours. The problem is in the software of the ECU. The problem is the same with i20, but in that case hyundai announced a software update.

i30 GD 1.4 CRDI 2012 oil RISE

Well that is interesting.  Thanks for the info. But why would it only effect some cars? 

[ideal09]

This is the reason that Hyundai didn't announce any software update for the i30. The affected cars are not as much as the i20. I know people that have already removed their clean dpf, because they didn't find any solution for this. The possible solutions are two, buy a new ECU, or re - installe the current software in your ECU( i don't know if hyundai support this action). My local dealership is totally useless, and i don't believe nothing of what he say. I paid the diagnostic check and the stupid - illiterate mechanic, didn't know to read the language( English) of the diagnostic tool.

[Dazzler]

Oh, that makes it VERY frustrating   

[jazz]

After calibrating the pressure sensor on DPF and reseting regen history and calibrating the DPF after cleaning which cost me 250 euro still the same problem.
All the readings are the same and should not trigger any regen every 50 km.
I now know that the pressure sensor is working correctly but there are also two exhaust temperature sensors. One before and one after the dpf or in the middle of dpf and they too are responsible for triggering the regen.
But I don't now what values they must have so I cannot test them
I know they are NTC sensors but that is all.
I know that NTC is like resistence, when the temperature rises the resistence drops.
Still hoping to find a solution for this problem.

[peppp]

I also like puzzles, but at this point wouldn't be better to remove DPF and program the ECU to ignore it ?

[Paolo39]

After calibrating the pressure sensor on DPF and reseting regen history and calibrating the DPF after cleaning which cost me 250 euro still the same problem.
All the readings are the same and should not trigger any regen every 50 km.
I now know that the pressure sensor is working correctly but there are also two exhaust temperature sensors. One before and one after the dpf or in the middle of dpf and they too are responsible for triggering the regen.
But I don't now what values they must have so I cannot test them
I know they are NTC sensors but that is all.
I know that NTC is like resistence, when the temperature rises the resistence drops.
Still hoping to find a solution for this problem.

Did anybody actually checked ECU for defects, water damage,  wiring etc.?
ECU is controlling DPF regens based on the sensors input. If the ECU is "no abla"  , then you will have problems.
Beside also this depends how you drive cycle looks.
Another underlying issue here could be that your engine is smoking more, than it used to and that what causing regens to happen often.
Your oil level started to rise and then stopped - here in my opinion is the clue.  Your engine is not healty and giving you signs.
Did you test coolant for the presence of exhaust gases (chemical test)?

[jazz]

In my case the engine has been checked many times by more then 10 certified hyundai mehanics and some of the system like commonrail from mehanics that do tests and services on commonrail systems.
It is very easy to say that the engine is not healty, but they can't find any problems with it.

I drove with laptop and diagnostic connected to car for 800km and I found that the regen is taking place every time when the sot in dpf is 19% then it does the regen and the soot goes to 0% and then all over again.
In my case  50km normal driving and then 25km regen and then again in a loop.
It has nothing to do with the engine. It is a loop in  the ecu. It is constant and the same.
When the soot is cleaned in the ecu it is 0% but the signal voltage in the sensor is the same.
When it trigers the regen on ecu it is 19% but the signal voltage on the sensor is the same.
No matter how you drive.
The pattern how is starts and ends is not normaln and can not be every time after 50 km.

I am now testing my solution for this problem so far it works great no regens no fault codes no problems. When needed I manually trigger the regen but so far no need for it since after 760km I'm at 30% soot without regen which I think is normal. The car is perfectly healthy. If it was not, the dpf would have been clogged without regen for so long.
This 30% I measured with a multimeter directly on the pressure sensor which indicates that the pressure sensore is ok.

I will post  the solution here which I came up with so other people can solve the problem of the dpf on those 1.4 crdi cars for under 5$.
And no mehanics are needed. And no DPF removal is needed. So its legal.

[mickd]

19% block and it decides to a clean , yeah, that's BS.
Keep us posted 

[Dazzler]

See new topic sticky here...

Workaround for i30 1.4 crdi 90hp DPF regeneration too often

With workaround by jazz for this issue.

[mickd]

See new topic sticky here...

Workaround for i30 1.4 crdi 90hp DPF regeneration too often

With workaround by jazz for this issue.

Good man Dazz, 

[Marioux]

Oh man I thought I was the only one facing this problem.@jazz, I have the exact same issue with my car.Exact same model.You're insight is gold ! Thank you !!!   

[Marioux]

Hello fellow members. Hope you are all well.

Thought I've give this thread a reply. @jazz  have you found the solution to this problem besides the workaround you posted here ( Workaround for i30 1.4 crdi 90hp DPF regeneration too often)  ?

My situation is this
Changed oil + filters
Forced regen (through GDS) (before regen GDS reported a 4 % clogged filter...so, was basically clean)
Mileage -> 121858

Next regen cycle after the forced regen (a good proper ~ 400 km which I consider should be the norm).

And then back to the same intervals 

122291 (started)
122296 (finished)

122369 (started)
122378 (finished)

122566 (started)
122573 (finished)

122630 (started)
122645 (finished)

...
not monitorized (borrowed the car for a little white)
...

123555 (started)
123575 (finished)

123733 (started)
123748 (finished)

124359 (started)
124372 (finished)

124500 (started)
124513 (finished)

124595(started)
124608 (finished)

124679 (started)
124686 (finished)

124734 (started)
124748 (finished)

125073 (started)
125084 (finished)

125208 (started)
125215 (finished)

125345 (started)
123357 (finished)

123525 (started)
123532 (finished)

125670 (started)
125679 (finished)

125692 (changed the gas station)

125775 (started/unfinished (switched off engine) - getting sick and tired of these so often regens.

125799 (started)
125811 (finished)

So there's 2 types of regens. One which takes between 5 to 8 Km
And another one which takes almost all the time ~20 km.

Since I've successfully finished most of the regen the oil level in the dip stick remains around 7 mm above max (was a lot worse before)

i30 2012 (D4FC)

I'm currently changing the oil like 2 times per year.