[Kaps]

Hello, recently i bought I30 CW 2011 and encountered problem with passenger door lock, every other lock works perfectly fine but only that one doesn't and I'm curious is that something mechanical or I just have to tear everything and change whole door lock, maybe someone got similar problem.
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[BrendanP]

There have been recent posts on door locks, if you want to search for them. I don't think it's practical to try taking the door lock apart, it's probably easier to buy a second-hand one from a breakers or off eBay. It's not that hard to replace IF you can open the door. If the door is closed and won't unlock, I'm not sure how you can get the door open. The deadlock mechanism prevents the external and internal door handles from opening the door, and I don't think anyone has yet found a solution to open the door when it's locked. Is it the front or rear door?

[Aye30]

Hi, This happened to my I30 (fd 2010), on the most used passenger door. It started half unlocking, which required pressing the unlock button a few times to get it to fully unlock. I removed the door card and sprayed lubricant into the bowden cables to reduce the friction. Manually moving the lock indicator got easier and the lock functioned normally. However about 5 days later the alternator and battery died. My theory is the battery was weaker and the stiffest lock cable didn't fully disengage, pushing the unlock button several times freed up the sticky cable allowing the lock to unlock. 
By hand, is the lock indicator stiffer to move than the other lock indicators? Also get the state of battery health checked on your battery, they don't behave like older cars, the cranking won't slow down as the battery runs low. It will just refuse to crank at all.

[BrendanP]

Hi, This happened to my I30 (fd 2010), on the most used passenger door. It started half unlocking, which required pressing the unlock button a few times to get it to fully unlock. I removed the door card and sprayed lubricant into the bowden cables to reduce the friction. Manually moving the lock indicator got easier and the lock functioned normally. However about 5 days later the alternator and battery died. My theory is the battery was weaker and the stiffest lock cable didn't fully disengage, pushing the unlock button several times freed up the sticky cable allowing the lock to unlock. 
By hand, is the lock indicator stiffer to move than the other lock indicators? Also get the state of battery health checked on your battery, they don't behave like older cars, the cranking won't slow down as the battery runs low. It will just refuse to crank at all.

if the lock does start getting difficult to operate then get it fixed whilst you can at least get the door open. If the problems lies with the deadlocking mechanism, then it mechanically decouples the cables from the doors levers within the lock, and you can tug on the cables as hard as you like but the door won't open. It's why any door lock issues should be sorted out sooner rather than later.  As an interim measure, unplug the cable to the door lock. It stops the central locking working and you'd have to use internal lever to lock the door, but at least you won't run the risk of not being able to get the door open.

[Pnut]

Ours was the same when we bought it, first thing i looked up on here was how to replace the door lock. We used a 2nd hand one from a wrecker, its still going strong 50,000km later.