[Phil №❶]

Can the ISG button be bridged and remain so, without causing any fault indications

[Asterix]

Or, could you give the ISG the signal that the engine isn't warm enough or the signal that the voltage is too low to operate the ISG....

[FatBoy]

Headlights stay on too long. Should go off as you remotely lock the doors.

Press the "lock" button again, the lights go out.  Well, they do on mine anyway.

As for the ISG issues, my theory has always been the following:

If you don't like ISG, why buy a car that has it?  I prefer changing gears myself, that is why I didn't buy an automatic!!

[Dazzler]

Unless the ISG is malfunctioning I don't understand the negativity! 

Surely, any fuel saving and noise reduction is a plus. Even if it is only 5% or so..

My car is as economical in the city as on the highway and that is partly due to a form of ISG. 

I now hate waiting at lights or in slow traffic in anything without it (e.g., Wife's CW) 

[tohis]

Can the ISG button be bridged and remain so, without causing any fault indications

I haven't tried, but wouldn't bet on that because the ISG can also be re-enabled by pressing that button.

Or, could you give the ISG the signal that the engine isn't warm enough or the signal that the voltage is too low to operate the ISG....

Once I thought about the battery sensor, which measures both voltage and temperature. However, there goes only two wires into it, so I guess it's a CAN bus device - no easy hacks like putting a resistor to the connector.

Come on Hyundai, please make it possible to set it off as default (or last used setting), like BMW has done lately! 

[Asterix]

Bloody CanBus, not easy to mess with...

[Phil №❶]

Can the ISG button be bridged and remain so, without causing any fault indications

I haven't tried, but wouldn't bet on that because the ISG can also be re-enabled by pressing that button.

Easy enough to try. Have someone press the button continuously while you go through Ign off, Ign on, & Start. If you get your desired result, you know what to modify. If not, back to the drawing board.

[tohis]

Unless the ISG is malfunctioning I don't understand the negativity! 

I may be a bit conservative about this issue, but there's also other reasons.
- Shutting the engine off for few seconds feels ridiculous and will not save this planet. I drive mostly in highways and country roads anyway, not much in city.
- I don't like the idea of wearing out the starter motor and battery prematurely, although it has been stated that ISG models have a heavy-duty starter.
- The ISG in i30 is too eager to kick in. When you have stopped and release the clutch, the engine will shut off immediately. This makes you feel you stalled the engine, which may lead to instinctively depressing the clutch and then the engine is running again, not saving fuel. There should be at least two seconds of delay before shutting off the engine. Even when you are about to reverse in a parking lot and lift the clutch pedal a bit to help engaging the reverse gear, that may be enough to the ISG to kick in! (has happened to me)
- Last but not the least, ISG doesn't know anything about cooling the turbo before shutting off the engine.

However, the good thing is that because of reduced CO² emissions, there's also smaller tax.

[Dazzler]

Fair call, mine is a CVT.

I haven't driven a manual with ISG (sounds like a different "kettle of fish")

[Doggie 1]

Lack of a 'mute' button on the steering wheel.

That is one feature I use regularly on the GD - the mute button. 

[paul]

Unless the ISG is malfunctioning I don't understand the negativity! 

I may be a bit conservative about this issue, but there's also other reasons.
- Shutting the engine off for few seconds feels ridiculous and will not save this planet. I drive mostly in highways and country roads anyway, not much in city.
- I don't like the idea of wearing out the starter motor and battery prematurely, although it has been stated that ISG models have a heavy-duty starter.
- The ISG in i30 is too eager to kick in. When you have stopped and release the clutch, the engine will shut off immediately. This makes you feel you stalled the engine, which may lead to instinctively depressing the clutch and then the engine is running again, not saving fuel. There should be at least two seconds of delay before shutting off the engine. Even when you are about to reverse in a parking lot and lift the clutch pedal a bit to help engaging the reverse gear, that may be enough to the ISG to kick in! (has happened to me)
- Last but not the least, ISG doesn't know anything about cooling the turbo before shutting off the engine.

However, the good thing is that because of reduced CO² emissions, there's also smaller tax.

There is no "MAY" I do it EVERY time 

[Keith]

Regarding the turbo cooling bit above.

I'm told that the Ford I have is equipped with a separate electrically powered pump to ensure fluid still flows around the turbo and it's bearings as it spools down.

Surely Hyundai will have done likewise?

"Even more importantly, the engine drinks 87-octane gas and the turbocharger is expected to last many miles without the need for dedicated engine idling periods just before shutdown. The engines control system continues to pump the cooling system's coolant/water mixture through water jackets in the turbo's center housing rotating assembly to siphon heat until a predetermined temperature is reached, no matter when the engine was shut off. This should effectively cool the very hot-running turbo, which can spin its rotors up to 170,000 rpm and measure as hot as 1740 degrees Fahrenheit during peak operation, to the point where engine oil coking is no longer a serious worry."

[Phil №❶]

There isn't any electrical activity in the Hy engine after shutdown, so cooling would only be by the supplied oil. Due to the current reliability of the turbos, one can assume that the cooling issue is quite adequately controlled by the present design. Even in the case of ISG, the Korean's seem to think of all possible scenarios.

[Lakes]

Regarding the turbo cooling bit above.

I'm told that the Ford I have is equipped with a separate electrically powered pump to ensure fluid still flows around the turbo and it's bearings as it spools down.

Surely Hyundai will have done likewise?

"Even more importantly, the engine drinks 87-octane gas and the turbocharger is expected to last many miles without the need for dedicated engine idling periods just before shutdown. The engines control system continues to pump the cooling system's coolant/water mixture through water jackets in the turbo's center housing rotating assembly to siphon heat until a predetermined temperature is reached, no matter when the engine was shut off. This should effectively cool the very hot-running turbo, which can spin its rotors up to 170,000 rpm and measure as hot as 1740 degrees Fahrenheit during peak operation, to the point where engine oil coking is no longer a serious worry."

Keith , i thought it was cold in England, did not think it would be an issue?
I would expect a petrol tubo would be spinning at much higher speeds that a Diesel, like 2,500rpm about normal for diesel , & 3,000 to 4,000rpm would be normal for petrol i would think?

[FatBoy]

Turbos do spin very, very fast.  However, I don't believe that the cooling would be an issue in situations where the ISG is operating (stop - start traffic).  IIRC, the turbo only needs cooling if you have just gone from high speed to stop, or from load carrying to stop.  The oil "coking" on the turbo will only be an issue IF the engine isn't started again within a couple of minutes.

[PhireSideZA]

So to necro a very old thread, today is the two week mark of me receiving my i30 and I thought after 2300km this is enough time for me to list the niggles I have found so far with it

- my rear view mirror rattles. Not much, but on smooth surfaces I hear it. Not planning on fixing it, though as it is bearable.
- I have a choice between RDS and not being able to turn on my radio with the steering wheel mounted controls, or being able to turn it on but no RDS. So far, RDS wins hands down!
- crap fuel consumption. I drive with the AC on maybe 5% of the time, I don't go over 120km/h, I drive very granny-like in the city yet only get 12 km to a litre of fuel. My 17 year old Honda got 16!
- I am not sure if my alarm works? 30 minutes after I have locked my car I can push and tug it all I want, the alarm won't go off. Also, no beep when locking/unlocking which sucks as I like audio feedback.
- sometimes my radio randomly forgets my USB has music on. I have tried three flash drives so far and all of them do the same every now and then. A reformat and reload of my songs helps.
- The climate control logic is dumb. Even after resetting it it wants to forever push the fan to the highest setting when I press Auto, no matter what temp I have chosen.
- Rubber door seals are very thin and flimsy and some of them have worn through (not acceptable for a 3 year old car)
- The tick-tock of the indicators could be louder. They also seem to self-cancel very early into a turn
- Hyundai should have installed guides or channels for the rear safety belts to lie in when you lie the seats flat, so that they don't get in the way when you fold them back up.
- I would have liked a little red immobilizer light on the rear view mirror to see that it is locked and the alarm is armed.
- My doors auto-lock at around 17km/h, which I feel is very soon as I barely get out of first gear when driving around a parking lot. It doesn't bother me though, but it has given me a fright on a few occasions!

I am not sure whether these can be considered gripes, and despite these niggles I love this car very much and I wouldn't trade it for the world

[Asterix]

The rear view mirror rattle is a known fault. If you still have warranty, get it replaced.

To check your alarm: Lock the car with the remote. Unlock by using the key in the doorlock. Alarm should then sound when you open the door..

[Dazzler]

- my rear view mirror rattles. What Henning said..
- crap fuel consumption. I drive with the AC on maybe 5% of the time, I don't go over 120km/h, I drive very granny-like in the city yet only get 12 km to a litre of fuel. My 17 year old Honda got 16! I think that works out 8.33 L/100kms which seems a bit high for a 1.6 petrol in those situations
- I am not sure if my alarm works? 30 minutes after I have locked my car I can push and tug it all I want, the alarm won't go off. Also, no beep when locking/unlocking which sucks as I like audio feedback. Strange no audio feedback! Not sure if you can turn it on off in that model?
- sometimes my radio randomly forgets my USB has music on. I have tried three flash drives so far and all of them do the same every now and then. A reformat and reload of my songs helps. That is also a bit odd.. More common to resume from beginning (could be a Fat32/NTFS thing)
- The climate control logic is dumb. Even after resetting it it wants to forever push the fan to the highest setting when I press Auto, no matter what temp I have chosen.  I think you can turn off the Auto defaults (but not sure of the button press sequence) I'm not a big fan of climate control I always default to manual control where I can...
- Rubber door seals are very thin and flimsy and some of them have worn through (not acceptable for a 3 year old car) Some have trouble with this and others don't!
- The tick-tock of the indicators could be louder. (seems to vary car to car but I and others had this problem with the i30)They also seem to self-cancel very early into a turn
- Hyundai should have installed guides or channels for the rear safety belts to lie in when you lie the seats flat, so that they don't get in the way when you fold them back up. I've had dearer cars without those guides either (but a good point)
- I would have liked a little red immobilizer light on the rear view mirror to see that it is locked and the alarm is armed. Isn't there one on the console?
- My doors auto-lock at around 17km/h, which I feel is very soon as I barely get out of first gear when driving around a parking lot. It doesn't bother me though, but it has given me a fright on a few occasions! May be able to change that to a higher speed at the dealer (I thought the default was about twice that speed - it is 29kph in my Hybrid)

[Phil №❶]

8.33 l/100k is an acceptable figure for a petrol engine IMO. At 120k, you will consume about 20% more fuel than @ 90 kmh. Keeping the engine tuned and filters clean and slow down a little, is all you can do to improve your fuel consumption.

My doors lock @ 40km/h, yours can be adjusted.

The alarm does not sense bumps or attempted entry, only open doors, bonnet & rear hatch via switch open circuit. I don't like audio feedback at all, especially @ 2.00 am.

All turn lights flash when activate / deactivate alarm occurs. No immobilizer LED necessary.

[neptune]

8.33 l/100k is an acceptable figure for a petrol engine IMO. At 120k, you will consume about 20% more fuel than @ 90 kmh. Keeping the engine tuned and filters clean and slow down a little, is all you can do to improve your fuel consumption.

My doors lock @ 40km/h, yours can be adjusted.

Strange you would say that , Phil about the fuel.......  I don't like the consumption... with the GD 6 sp auto we get between 8.1 - 8.6 l/100k and with the FD 4 sp auto we got 7.4 -7.8l/100k....... I can't figure out with two extra gears , I get worse fuel economy....

my doors on both models lock at 18kph...

[CraigB]

I couldn't be happier with my fuel economy, I mainly average 5.9 to 6.2 per tank and if I reset the average for a straight run up the freeway from one end to the other she'll sit on 4.8 to 5.0.

I'm usually getting 780 out of a tank with 5 ltr's still remaining and the most I've achieved from 1 tank was 830 on a trip down south with still 5 ltr's left in the tank.

What I don't like are some flat spots that are still apparent but my service manager rang me yesterday and said they'll look further into the matter and put in a request for a revised remap to be written ( fingers crossed )

[PhireSideZA]

The rear view mirror rattle is a known fault. If you still have warranty, get it replaced.

To check your alarm: Lock the car with the remote. Unlock by using the key in the doorlock. Alarm should then sound when you open the door..

No warranty anymore unfortunately. Tried unlocking with the key even after a few hours and it just unlocks. My boss' 2010 i20 does the exact same thing strangely enough.

[i30autoju]

No complaints, other than front seats could be wider.

[mjt57]

I've had my 2011 i30 since Nov of that year. Nearly 30,000km up on it. So far, no problems except for a failed door lock actuator (promptly repaired under warranty).

Here are the things that I don't like about the car:

• No mute button on the steering wheel
• Heater takes ages to warm up
• Power outlet socket doesn't stay live when ignition off
• Can't unlock just the driver's door. All doors unlock remotely. Not good for personal safety
• Why, when a car is small, do they design small sun visors. It doesn't have the reach when covering the side window, so low winter sun positively annoys you. As a tip for any i30 engineers reading this, have a look at the Toyota Prado's sun visor. It has a retractable extension.

That's about it, really. Most are convenience items, but are standard on other cars. Fuel economy could be better but that may be down to my driving. I get around 6 around town and low 5s on the freeway. Either mine's high or others quoted on these hallowed pages are somewhat exaggerated, particularly the petrol variants.

[CraigB]

I get around 6 around town and low 5s on the freeway. Either mine's high or others quoted on these hallowed pages are somewhat exaggerated, particularly the petrol variants.

How so? we have Different models an different engines so you can really only compare to an equal equivalent of your own vehicle.

[Berber]

Having had my car for 3 months here is my tuppence worth:

Less turbo lag - will have to get a remap.

A power point in the boot would be useful (Civics have these - great for running a coolbox and easier to run the tyre inflator from for topping up the rear tyres).

Other than that I am one happy bunny.

[Doggie 1]

Having had my car for 3 months here is my tuppence worth:

Less turbo lag - will have to get a remap.

A power point in the boot would be useful (Civics have these - great for running a coolbox and easier to run the tyre inflator from for topping up the rear tyres).

Other than that I am one happy bunny.

Interesting.
I've never found turbo lag an issue in either my previous FD or current GD.
It can get off the boil a bit at times depending on what gear I'm in but not to any great extent.
And the GD has a power outlet in the cargo area. 

[Berber]

Having had my car for 3 months here is my tuppence worth:

Less turbo lag - will have to get a remap.

A power point in the boot would be useful (Civics have these - great for running a coolbox and easier to run the tyre inflator from for topping up the rear tyres).

Other than that I am one happy bunny.

Interesting.
I've never found turbo lag an issue in either my previous FD or current GD.
It can get off the boil a bit at times depending on what gear I'm in but not to any great extent.
And the GD has a power outlet in the cargo area. 

I guess that it what I meant. If you do not work the gears, there is a distinct lag. My wife drives it like a rally car and really works the box. Funnily enough she doesnt feel any lag.

Oh and more soundproofing under the carpets would have helped the noise!

[Doggie 1]

Having had my car for 3 months here is my tuppence worth:

Less turbo lag - will have to get a remap.

A power point in the boot would be useful (Civics have these - great for running a coolbox and easier to run the tyre inflator from for topping up the rear tyres).

Other than that I am one happy bunny.

Interesting.
I've never found turbo lag an issue in either my previous FD or current GD.
It can get off the boil a bit at times depending on what gear I'm in but not to any great extent.
And the GD has a power outlet in the cargo area. 

I guess that it what I meant. If you do not work the gears, there is a distinct lag. My wife drives it like a rally car and really works the box. Funnily enough she doesnt feel any lag.

Oh and more soundproofing under the carpets would have helped the noise!

 

And maybe some Berber carpet.   
Berber carpet - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[Berber]

Having had my car for 3 months here is my tuppence worth:

Less turbo lag - will have to get a remap.

A power point in the boot would be useful (Civics have these - great for running a coolbox and easier to run the tyre inflator from for topping up the rear tyres).

Other than that I am one happy bunny.

Interesting.
I've never found turbo lag an issue in either my previous FD or current GD.
It can get off the boil a bit at times depending on what gear I'm in but not to any great extent.
And the GD has a power outlet in the cargo area. 

I guess that it what I meant. If you do not work the gears, there is a distinct lag. My wife drives it like a rally car and really works the box. Funnily enough she doesnt feel any lag.

Oh and more soundproofing under the carpets would have helped the noise!

 

And maybe some Berber carpet.   
Berber carpet - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Now theres a thought. Fitted berber carpets. Should have picked some up last time I was in the desert.

It has to be said that they are really expensive.