[beerman]

Yep, spoke to Harold and he needs a new supplier.....and doesn't know when he will get one....

Anyone used Penrite HPR Diesel 5????

[Dazzler]

Yep, spoke to Harold and he needs a new supplier.....and doesn't know when he will get one....

Anyone used Penrite HPR Diesel 5????

I can't recall anyone saying so.. Here is a link to the specs and website if anyone is interested...

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/motor-oil/hpr/hpr_diesel_5

[beerman]

In the end I went with Fuchs Titan Gt1 Proflex 5w30.

It goes in Thursday week after I put the last 1000k's on the car so I'll let you know how it goes then. At 58.91 for 5l, it was nearly half the cost of the Hyundai oil.

Their site is rubbish so......

Specificiation / Approvals
l ACEA C3
l ACEA A3/B4
l API SM
l BMW LONGLIFE-04
l MB-APPROVAL 229.51
l GM DEXOS 2
l VW 502 00, 505 00, 505.01
Characteristics
Property Unit Value Test
Method
SAE Grade 5W-30 SAE J300
Density @ 15 °C Kg/L 0.855 DIN
51757
Kinematic
Viscosity @ 40 °
C
cSt 67 ASTM
D445
Kinematic
Viscosity @ 100 °
C
cSt 11.7 ASTM
D445
Dynamic
Viscosity mPas 6000 DIN
51398
Viscosity Index 171 ASTM
D2270
Flash Point, COC °C 230 ASTM
D92
TITAN GT1 PROFLEX 5W-30
Premium motor oil for modern passenger cars and light commercial vehicles with or without extended service
intervals. Specially developed for BMW, Mercedes-Benz and Opel vehicles with exhaust after treatment and
turbocharger. Optimum cold starting, lower oil consumption and minimized exhaust emissions.

[agentr31]

genuine hyundai oil is shell oil... and the genuine branded one is like $80something

i bought it once, ill never buy it again.... nissan genuine oil on the other hand.... ill get that anyday!

[beerman]

Its $100 up here. Every dealer you question about the $300 they want to slug you for the 15k service all say the same thing......'Well the oil alone is $100'. I could understand this if the CRDI was a side project and they were buying it in 5l bottles, but every second I30 is a CRDI, they would be buying it in bulk. Even Mobil 1 isn't $100 for 5l (and I'm not saying its the best oil, just one of the most expensive).

They won't tell you any more about the oil they put in your car other than it is 'Hyundai blend' and good luck getting product information. I spent lots of time researching and I'm fairly confident about my oil choice.

I'm against dealer servicing most of the time, but with gouging like that, I'm booked in with my usual mechanic and I bet it costs me less than half that (even adding in the oil I provide).

[agentr31]

yer there are lots of better choices of oils than the genuine one!!!

[2i30s]

genuine hyundai oil is shell oil... and the genuine branded one is like $80something

i bought it once, ill never buy it again.... nissan genuine oil on the other hand.... ill get that anyday!

my dealer uses castrol magnatech,they all use a different oil brand. 

[beerman]

Exactly, whatever is cheapest and fits the specs for the car (if your lucky).

Hence they are at best guarded at telling you what it is. Saves all those embarrassing why am I paying more than the retail price for oil you buy in bulk questions.....

[Dazzler]

my dealer uses castrol magnatech

Don't threaten me... 

[beerman]

Put the Fuchs into the car at the 15k service on Thursday. I have noticed that the engine seems smoother and the response low down in the rev range has improved massively, it used to feel sluggish and want to change down a gear. Now its really smooth.

[eyecon]

 

[beerman]

Cost me $60.

[Master_Scythe]

I have a headache from too long on the BITOG forums. I've come to my conclusion.

1. I will be running Valvoline SynPOWER 0-30
Its tests come back as having very few 'raw' additives (new people often assume its 'a shit oil' because of this), however if you look at UOA's on BITOG forums, SynPOWER ALWAYS comes back as one of the BEST. I'm quite impressed. This means it has synthetic friction modifiers instead of the old raw element ones; otherwise it wouldnt 'do so well'. Its also mostly a Base4 Oil with a touch of Base3; instead of the other way around, so once again, the closest to a 'true synthetic' we'll get in australia for under $100.

I will be adding Zinc and Phospherous levels up to about 1000ppm (up from roughly 800ppm by default) You cant say no to better lubrication, and its still nowhere near the 'max' range of these addatives (1500ppm)
And I'll be adding some Moly, Its quite hard to find a decent source for Moly in Aus, however, once again, its a fantastic friction modifier and oils dont have enough of it these days.


I'll let everyone know how my 'mix' goes. Every time I find 'a fantastic deal' on a car, its in a bloody'nother state! and not NSW (i'm in QLD) but bloody WA or somewhere; i'm not driving that far back, i'd miss work.

Soon my pet, soon you shall feast....

I have a headache from too long on the BITOG forums. I've come to my conclusion.

1. I will be running Valvoline SynPOWER 0-30

Know the feeling

Valvoline anything was not on my radar at all when I was choosing. In fact I positively discounted it as being well marketed junk! Well maybe not junk... I'll have another look as it seems at least for now my first choice (German Castrol) is unavailable. I have one year's supply and then it's something else if by then it's still N/A.

At least 0w30 on this alone sounds like a proper synthetic. Hard to get a 0w in a cheap base. Group 3 really bails out at 5w.

From what you write I value your opinion.

[beerman]

Pip,

Have you thought of buying GC direct from a US supplier?

I was investigating this option but was lazy and didn't get it done in time for my service.

I am seriously thinking of giving it a go before my 30k service in about April. I would like to try it, because it has rave reviews and the reoccurring theme on BITOG is that you never know how good an oil is in your car until you try it out. Pip's rave reviews also have me interested.

Even if it involves having the oil sent to a US address and fwd to me here (there are a few places that will do this service).

Can you tell me if the GC drops the RPM for the engine? Mine sits on about 2600rpm@120 and would love to see that drop for the economy.

I too looked at the Synth but thought the protection at start up was lower than others. Your confidence to add additives to the oil will no doubt assist you to make it good stuff. I respect your ability and confidence to do this, but I prefer to stick to what\,s in the pack. Just in case.

[Master_Scythe]

I respect your ability and confidence to do this, but I prefer to stick to what\,s in the pack. Just in case.

I know the feeling, and long ago I was the same. "What if it goes wrong?" etc.
Then one day I realised a lot of these companies and 'technologies' are VERY old 'home brews' being re-used (and confirmed as good on BITOG, doing UOA's). Zinc below 1500ppm has ALWAYS been good, so has phosphorous, and Moly has been used in excess by honda for as long as they've existed (but not many other companies, strangely), and look at THEIR reputation "The engine that never dies". My first ever car was a 2L Accord with 400 000km's on the original engine. Puffed a bit at startup by 2 mins in, and it was perfect.

Re-reading it seems people have mixed oppinions on base4 vs 3 on the valvoline; seems it varies country to country.
One thing I'm sure of; I'll be going as synthetic as possible. We're turbo'd which means a lot of stress on the oil, and Dino cant handle the heat.
I'll keep researching and get back to everyone. Valvoline's rep of 'bad (theoretical) tests, great (practiced) results' seems to hold true. But I'd really like to find out what the deal is with NULON oils these days.

They stopped using PTFE (teflon) after they killed a lot of engines with it (WTF were they thinking? Teflon doesnt bond till 1000oC; it was always crap) but still claim "42% less friction" and I wanna know how they do it!

Also, there's those two new groups that popped up at Supercheap; their own brand (Calibre) and a newcomer to the market (Gulf Western). Both are STUPIDLY cheap, and I cant yet find reviews.

Since I oil change every 75000km's "shit oil" is technically OK, but if you cant tell from the short time I've been here; I LIKE quality in my fluids.

Pip,
Have you thought of buying GC direct from a US supplier?

Looked but never found a source.

Can you tell me if the GC drops the RPM for the engine? Mine sits on about 2600rpm@120 and would love to see that drop for the economy.

Someone else asked this question once. Interesting misunderstanding. With the greatest of respect, what you ask shows a lack of basic knowledge.

Gear ratios and revs per KM/H are fixed by physical components that can only be changed (easily) at the design stage.

Oil is, simplistically put, only there to separate the metal bits that would otherwise "scrape" against each other.

One thing I'm sure of; I'll be going as synthetic as possible. We're turbo'd which means a lot of stress on the oil, and Dino cant handle the heat.

Not only that it can't reach the ACEA B4 requirement! I'm not including group 3 in that statement. I'm of the opinion that while group 3 can cut into genuine group4/5 (synthetic) territory it does so only just. Most people don't care because the car will be out of their care long before the difference is appreciated.

But I'd really like to find out what the deal is with NULON oils these days...

Pass.

Since I oil change every 75000km's...

That sounds like a good reason to use good stuff.

[Master_Scythe]

Pass on NULON? Why?

They learnt and removed the PTFE from their oils and addatives, SOMETHING has to be giving them their 42% improvement lab results. I wanna know what!

Yeah, maybe it's better... but it was either technical naivety or immoral marketing that kept the PTFE in for so long. I've got a long memory and an unforgiving nature.

[rustynutz]

I've used Nulon for years...not their oil but their oil additives and have never had a problem. I added it to my Holden Barina from the time it was out of warranty which in those days was 12 months/20,000k's up until I pensioned the ol' girl off with 420,000k's on the clock and with the motor still running pretty sweetly. Oil changes were done every 10,000k's with a variety of oils....no top of the range stuff, basically whatever was on special.
 I'm also happy to say I did every oil change on the little beast for it's entire life.....even while it was under warranty....

I also used it in my motorcycle and never had any issues with it either.....

So here's one fan....

So here's one fan....

A quick look at this product shows it is the PTFE additive. I've not researched this for a long time but last I looked this was not considered a good product.

Can't argue with Rusty's Barina result though!

P.S., I hope you are not sticking this in your CRDi Rusty.

[Master_Scythe]

PTFE is a TERRIBLE addative; however is the 'cleanest' antileak formula.

PTFE doesnt 'melt' and adhere to anyhting untill 1000C; it wont happen. While its still in its solid form, its an abrasive, not a lubricant.

The theory was 'interesting' but QUICKLY debunked.

As i said though, the PTFE gathers around leaks, and 'settles' in the oil (which is bad for an additive) but DOES fill little crevices and faults in the engine.

These days that job is taken by Moly (which melts VERY quickly, adheres well, and provides a true layer of protection).

To break it down in one sentence; It was an ABRASIVE you were adding to your oil (advertised as a friction reducing additive) which allowed your engine not to leak oil as a side effect.

To be honest, i'm not surprised an old Opel barina lasted that long. Those things dont die.

[rustynutz]

P.S., I hope you are not sticking this in your CRDi Rusty.

Nope, happy to stick with synthetic oils at this stage, pip.... 

PTFE is a TERRIBLE addative; however is the 'cleanest' antileak formula.

PTFE doesnt 'melt' and adhere to anyhting untill 1000C; it wont happen. While its still in its solid form, its an abrasive, not a lubricant.

The theory was 'interesting' but QUICKLY debunked.

As i said though, the PTFE gathers around leaks, and 'settles' in the oil (which is bad for an additive) but DOES fill little crevices and faults in the engine.

These days that job is taken by Moly (which melts VERY quickly, adheres well, and provides a true layer of protection).

To break it down in one sentence; It was an ABRASIVE you were adding to your oil (advertised as a friction reducing additive) which allowed your engine not to leak oil as a side effect.

To be honest, i'm not surprised an old Opel barina lasted that long. Those things dont die.

Actually it wasn't an old Opel Barina, I wouldn't have one of them if you paid me! Mine was the Suzuki Swift/Holden Barina....

My Barina seems to have shot your theory full of holes. If the stuff is so "abrasive" why did I get such a good run out of it? I never touched the motor in the whole time I owned it other than routine maintenance....Same with the bike, and that was running the clutch in the stuff as well! 

[Master_Scythe]

Well THERE'S your proof!

You ran it (it claiming to reduce friction) in a motorcycle, with a wet clutch system, and it did NOT cause clutch\gear slipping? Its not doing its job. (lucky for you )


As for the barina lasting; Cars dont 'die' easily. Ive seen cars with 100 000kms on ONE oil change. its STUPID, but the cars operated no worse for wear. (noisy... but... working)

However; I'd be willing to bet, if you put a compression test on said vehicle, and compared its dyno results to its baseline, it'd be worse.

My current car is a good example. Ive managed to restore LOTS of its lost power through replacing parts, using the 'wrong' Throttle Position Sensor (so it thinks its always slightly on accelerate) and changing from its recommeded oil (15w30) to a better one (synthetic 5w30). The damage was done though. Occasionally it feels like a slug in treacle. Stupid previous owner.

Damage isnt quick, nor often noticible, but it does occur, and I'm glad for you that it didnt cause any major issues. Fact remains though; PTFE was proven as an abrasive as it didnt melt or bond as it should have. quick google ot BITOG search will show you

[rustynutz]

I think I used E20 in the bike, (it's that long ago I'm having trouble remembering).....I do remember it said it was safe for wet clutches otherwise there's no way I would've used it.
I used E20 in the Barina after driving 80,000k's on the E30....eventually swapping to E10.....

Damage isnt quick, nor often noticible, but it does occur, and I'm glad for you that it didnt cause any major issues. Fact remains though; PTFE was proven as an abrasive as it didnt melt or bond as it should have. quick google ot BITOG search will show you

It never caused ANY issues whatsoever.... .

Anyhow, all I know is I had a fantastic run with the Barina, better than most people seem to have with their vehicles and the difference seems to be that I used Nulon.....

[Master_Scythe]

Nah, the difference is that the barina was (and still is) a rediculously reliable and 'simple' car. As I said though; i'm very glad for you, that you got such a good run

Also; lol at the instructions "Said it was OK for wet clutch systems".
A friction modifier thats OK on wet clutches? INSTANT alarm bells. Not even the big oil companies can manage to do that (they all have those warnings if they're a friction modifying oil not to use in bikes).
And a little Aussie company claims to have it figured, AND no one else adopted the idea?

I always loved Nulon too; then I learnt. Didnt kill any of my vehicles either, but I dont doubt it had 'gunk' in its oil that wasnt doing anything.

[Rocket]

Wow! This thread is a bit confusing.

It seems that the general consensus is to use a fully synthetic oil, and because Hyundai Engines have small oil passages a low viscosity is required for cold starts.

Want to give my new toy the best possible protection  with an oil that is readily available locally. Ended up buying Shell Helix Ultra Extra 5w-30 from our local parts shop.



Had used Newlon (sic) in an Elantra recently. Was not terribly impressed with it. Seemed to make the top of the Engine more rattly if anything.

The Engine in this i30 is a 2litre petrol which has only done 9,800klm and the top end is just sounding a little rattly at start up. Hope this oil fixes it.

Have not read anything regarding oil filters for the i30. Do they use the standard filter 26300-35503?
On another Forum i read of a TSB which requires all Hyundais to use the genuine filter, as after market filters were not putting the  correct oil pressure to the top of the engine.

Rocket.

[Dazzler]

As you would know rocket that is a pretty good oil (probably better than the petrol engine needs) I got some on clearance a while back at Kmart for $40 (down from $60 something)

Quite a bit on here about the Diesel oil filter (it has a permanent holder with a replaceable filter and rubber washer and there are 2 different sizes a thick and a thinner depending on the build date)

 Reckon the Petrol one would be the same as the current elantra?

[2i30s]

genuine hyundai oil is shell oil... and the genuine branded one is like $80something

i bought it once, ill never buy it again.... nissan genuine oil on the other hand.... ill get that anyday!

my dealer uses castrol magnatech,they all use a different oil brand. 

we took both cars in for their 21.500km service thismorning and was informed they don't use the 5/w30 castrol oil anymore,now its shell 10/w40 because its a better oil for the i30 petrol engine.