i30 Owners Club

Recent Posts

1
Remember. Never touch new halogen bulbs with bare fingers.
2
PETROL / Re: Loss of Power
« Last post by Greyhound 18 minutes ago »
There are a number of threads here on the forum referring to "power" and "3000", some pointing to fuel filter.
See this for example: :link: Limp Mode
3
PETROL / Loss of Power
« Last post by jbez85 1 hour ago »
Hi all, first time posting.

i30 Wagon, GD, 1.6ltr auto.

Starts fine, accelerates fine until it hits 3000rpm and cuts fuel (not fully), then acceleration is sluggish.

Initially thought it was missing so replaced plugs and ignition coils.

Does this in auto, or sitting in neutral or or manual shift of auto (tried to see if it was anything to do with box)

Thoughts? Is this limp mode? No engine light, buying a fault code reader tomorrow.

Assuming something is telling the ECU to cut fuel?
4
If you have read those two links, you will note that Diesels (which you have) have reportedly been prone to headlamp blowing.
Have you tried fitting new bulbs or swapped bulbs or proceeded with any of the diagnostics mentioned in those posts, using a multimeter (or even a test lamp) to trace 12V supply to the lamps?
Also check earth points.

Thanks for the response. I'll try testing the headlight globes with a multi-meter and replace them if they blown. Just very strange to have them both blow at once.
5
That's for a complete switch, the rubber boot is integral to it. Just prise the old one out, unplug the connector, plug it into the new switch and snap it into position. The OEM part number is 81260-A5000, and is for the GD hatchback. I could have paid £40+ for a genuine Hyundai/Kia part, but they're not exactly proving to be very durable. I'm surprised at the number of second-hand ones being offered on eBay where the rubber boot is falling apart.
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Brendan, is that a complete switch (so you have to swap the wiring) or just a rubber/plastic cover for the actual switch?
7
I just replaced the switch on my car, and also on a similar car we just bought for my partner. About £11 for a 3rd party equivalent. It's quite easy to prise out the old switch at one side, then snip or break off the retaining tab. Push it back in, then lever it out on the other side, it's then easier to pull out the other side where the tab has been removed.



8
GENERAL / Re: Check headlight (Low) warning - no headlights
« Last post by Greyhound May 25, 2024, 10:14:04 »
If you have read those two links, you will note that Diesels (which you have) have reportedly been prone to headlamp blowing.
Have you tried fitting new bulbs or swapped bulbs or proceeded with any of the diagnostics mentioned in those posts, using a multimeter (or even a test lamp) to trace 12V supply to the lamps?
Also check earth points.
9
GENERAL / Re: CAN bus error C1613
« Last post by buff May 25, 2024, 09:31:25 »
This may help
10
GENERAL / Re: Check headlight (Low) warning - no headlights
« Last post by inmn May 25, 2024, 03:23:51 »
The high-beam works, as do the LED driving lights.

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